Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Main wall

Vermont > 2. Central Vermont > Deer Leap
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org DetailsDrop down

Description

This cliff is home to about 25-30 climbs; some high quality trad climbs, mostly on the left side, and some mixed climbs (i.e. bolts and gear) of varying quality on the right. The cliff faces south and can be quite windy since it sits on the ridge upon which the long trail runs. Several climbs can be top roped and a 60m rope is sufficient for all the climbs.

I've included only the best climbs on the left side for now.

Getting There

Dear Leap is located in Killington on Rte. 4 near Pico Ski resort. The cliff sits above The Inn on the Long Trail, and parking is across the road.

The approach takes about 15 minutes, and requires some scrambling. The quickest route is not easy to find, but ascends a short slab (below and to the left are a couple shorter climbs that need some more traffic to clean up), then finds a way through some boulders above.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 32
● Off Width
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
● Monkey Direct
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
● The Monkey
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 6
● The Bulge (AKA - The Flying Grou…
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 84
● Center Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
● Pit and the Pendulum
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 21
● Standard Route
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
● Tonys Tunnel
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 6
● Perfect Pint
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
● Celibacy
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2- PG13
 1
● Simple and Independent Minds
Trad, Aid
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 2
● The Black Wonton
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Off Width
 32
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
● Monkey Direct
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● The Monkey
 55
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● The Bulge (AKA - The Flying…
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, TR
● Center Crack
 84
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Pit and the Pendulum
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Standard Route
 21
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
● Tonys Tunnel
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Perfect Pint
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
● Celibacy
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Simple and Independent Minds
 1
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2- PG13 Trad, Aid
● The Black Wonton
 2
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Deer Leap climbing area
[Hide Photo] Deer Leap climbing area
Nick Goldsmith leading Celibacy 5.9+ <br> For a complete guide to the area see www.deersleapvt.com
[Hide Photo] Nick Goldsmith leading Celibacy 5.9+ For a complete guide to the area see www.deersleapvt.com
From the parking area across the road .... Inn of The Long Trail, established hiking trail to cliff starts in the right side of Inn's parking area
[Hide Photo] From the parking area across the road .... Inn of The Long Trail, established hiking trail to cliff starts in the right side of Inn's parking area
Tyler entering the crack on the monkey
[Hide Photo] Tyler entering the crack on the monkey
The view from the top never fails. Kirk and Novello approve.
[Hide Photo] The view from the top never fails. Kirk and Novello approve.
The cliff, well known routes are on the "white ish " left side bulge.
[Hide Photo] The cliff, well known routes are on the "white ish " left side bulge.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

onX Sucks
onX sucks, USA
[Hide Comment] As Nick has mentioned on the main page for Vermont, the new website for this area can be found at deerleapclimbing.com Jan 17, 2012
Daniel Kuzio
Plainfield, VT
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know if any of the routes here can be accessed from above and top roped? Thanks! Jul 19, 2013
onX Sucks
onX sucks, USA
[Hide Comment] Daniel - Everything on the main face left side can be toproped - there are several sets of bolted anchors, where each anchor can be used for multiple climbs. The shortest path to get to the anchors is to take the direct trail up to the main cliff, and continue around the left side. Many of the lower climbs can also be toproped although if I recall there is often rope rubbing on rock for those (although nothing too serious). Apr 10, 2014
Ian Dibbs
Lake Placid
[Hide Comment] The climbers trail to cliff is very rough, slippery, dangerous and can't be recommended. The established hiking trail is longer, slower, but is a safe, less vegetation destructive, tranquil way up and takes only a gentle 1/2 hour.
Once at the "top" of the hiking trail on the big rocky bulge, the climbs don't start there but down a level (looking down at 10:00) where there are some trees. Once at the correct spot (anchors unseen just over the edge of the cliff)... a trail to the climbs base is found on the right side (when looking over the cliff) which looks scary steep but actually isn't too bad. Sep 11, 2014
Travis Vicary
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] Have there been problems with theft from the parking lot here? I'm thinking about heading that in the near future but I don't want my bike disappearing. May 19, 2016
onX Sucks
onX sucks, USA
[Hide Comment] Travis - the parking is right along route 4, and is also right across / right next to the Inn up there, so it's not a very secluded place, and is not really ideal for breaking in to cars. I have never heard of any issues with break ins, I personally would feel fine leaving my car parked there all day (windows up and doors locked, of course) Jul 15, 2016
Joseph Gorawt
[Hide Comment] The bolts on center crack are getting pretty loose. No surprise as that route is easily the most popular. If anyone has the tools / know-how to replace them I'd be happy to help pay for some new bolts / help install them - message me. Apr 27, 2017
Kristen Fiore
Burlington, VT
[Hide Comment] Hi Joseph,

I notified Greg Kuchyt, he's the local go-to guy for bolt replacement in Vermont. I'm sure he will reach out to you and help you diagnose/develop a fix.

EDIT: Scratch that, look for Nick Goldsmith. Apr 28, 2017
Sara Stabley
[Hide Comment] Are there any designated bouldering routes in this area? May 12, 2017
Alexandra Reider
Lancaster, PA
[Hide Comment] I'm going to be staying here 6/7-6/13. Looking to do some climbing but none of the guide website links work. Looks like they're not active anymore. Does anyone have info on this? Also looking for partners as well while I'm there. May 26, 2017
Cooper Uliano
Saranac Lake, NY
[Hide Comment] Awesome place to climb with very nice camping accommodations from the Inn at the Long Trail (See the Pico Trailhead sign). More of the climbing on the lower cliffs should be on here! Found a few nice short climbs below the tree line but don't have the guidebook to check the name. There is a ton of great climbing here. Awesome hiking nearby too. Definitely worth a trip to it. Aug 24, 2020
Jeff Cox
[Hide Comment] Just got back from a first great visit today. The bolts on top of Irene were getting loose. I'm not sure who's the right admin to alert. Anyone know? Sep 19, 2021