This cliff is home to about 25-30 climbs; some high quality trad climbs, mostly on the left side, and some mixed climbs (i.e. bolts and gear) of varying quality on the right. The cliff faces south and can be quite windy since it sits on the ridge upon which the long trail runs. Several climbs can be top roped and a 60m rope is sufficient for all the climbs.
I've included only the best climbs on the left side for now.
Getting There
Dear Leap is located in Killington on Rte. 4 near Pico Ski resort. The cliff sits above The Inn on the Long Trail, and parking is across the road.
The approach takes about 15 minutes, and requires some scrambling. The quickest route is not easy to find, but ascends a short slab (below and to the left are a couple shorter climbs that need some more traffic to clean up), then finds a way through some boulders above.
[Hide Photo] Nick Goldsmith leading Celibacy 5.9+ For a complete guide to the area see www.deersleapvt.com
[Hide Photo] From the parking area across the road .... Inn of The Long Trail, established hiking trail to cliff starts in the right side of Inn's parking area
[Hide Photo] Tyler entering the crack on the monkey
[Hide Photo] The view from the top never fails. Kirk and Novello approve.
[Hide Photo] The cliff, well known routes are on the "white ish " left side bulge.
[Hide Comment] Daniel - Everything on the main face left side can be toproped - there are several sets of bolted anchors, where each anchor can be used for multiple climbs. The shortest path to get to the anchors is to take the direct trail up to the main cliff, and continue around the left side. Many of the lower climbs can also be toproped although if I recall there is often rope rubbing on rock for those (although nothing too serious).
Apr 10, 2014
[Hide Comment] The climbers trail to cliff is very rough, slippery, dangerous and can't be recommended. The established hiking trail is longer, slower, but is a safe, less vegetation destructive, tranquil way up and takes only a gentle 1/2 hour. Once at the "top" of the hiking trail on the big rocky bulge, the climbs don't start there but down a level (looking down at 10:00) where there are some trees. Once at the correct spot (anchors unseen just over the edge of the cliff)... a trail to the climbs base is found on the right side (when looking over the cliff) which looks scary steep but actually isn't too bad.
Sep 11, 2014
[Hide Comment] Have there been problems with theft from the parking lot here? I'm thinking about heading that in the near future but I don't want my bike disappearing.
May 19, 2016
[Hide Comment] Travis - the parking is right along route 4, and is also right across / right next to the Inn up there, so it's not a very secluded place, and is not really ideal for breaking in to cars. I have never heard of any issues with break ins, I personally would feel fine leaving my car parked there all day (windows up and doors locked, of course)
Jul 15, 2016
[Hide Comment] The bolts on center crack are getting pretty loose. No surprise as that route is easily the most popular. If anyone has the tools / know-how to replace them I'd be happy to help pay for some new bolts / help install them - message me.
Apr 27, 2017
I notified Greg Kuchyt, he's the local go-to guy for bolt replacement in Vermont. I'm sure he will reach out to you and help you diagnose/develop a fix.
EDIT: Scratch that, look for Nick Goldsmith.
Apr 28, 2017
[Hide Comment] I'm going to be staying here 6/7-6/13. Looking to do some climbing but none of the guide website links work. Looks like they're not active anymore. Does anyone have info on this? Also looking for partners as well while I'm there.
May 26, 2017
[Hide Comment] Awesome place to climb with very nice camping accommodations from the Inn at the Long Trail (See the Pico Trailhead sign). More of the climbing on the lower cliffs should be on here! Found a few nice short climbs below the tree line but don't have the guidebook to check the name. There is a ton of great climbing here. Awesome hiking nearby too. Definitely worth a trip to it.
Aug 24, 2020
[Hide Comment] Just got back from a first great visit today. The bolts on top of Irene were getting loose. I'm not sure who's the right admin to alert. Anyone know?
Sep 19, 2021
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Vermont, USA
Plainfield, VT
Vermont, USA
Lake Placid
Once at the "top" of the hiking trail on the big rocky bulge, the climbs don't start there but down a level (looking down at 10:00) where there are some trees. Once at the correct spot (anchors unseen just over the edge of the cliff)... a trail to the climbs base is found on the right side (when looking over the cliff) which looks scary steep but actually isn't too bad. Sep 11, 2014
New Hampshire
Vermont, USA
Burlington, VT
I notified Greg Kuchyt, he's the local go-to guy for bolt replacement in Vermont. I'm sure he will reach out to you and help you diagnose/develop a fix.
EDIT: Scratch that, look for Nick Goldsmith. Apr 28, 2017
Lancaster, PA