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Routes in Deer Leap

Black Wonton, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bulge (AKA - The Flying Groundhog), The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Celibacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Center Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pit and the Pendulum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simple and Independent Minds T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2- PG13
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tonys Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 2,482 ft
GPS: 43.665, -72.833 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,092 total · 150/month
Shared By: Mike Baetz on Mar 21, 2008 with updates
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

Description

This cliff is home to about 25-30 climbs; some high quality trad climbs, mostly on the left side, and some mixed climbs (i.e. bolts and gear) of varying quality on the right. The cliff faces south and can be quite windy since it sits on the ridge upon which the long trail runs. Several climbs can be top roped and a 60m rope is sufficient for all the climbs.

I've included only the best climbs on the left side for now.

Getting There

Dear Leap is located in Killington on Rte. 4 near Pico Ski resort. The cliff sits above The Inn on the Long Trail, and parking is across the road.

The approach takes about 15 minutes, and requires some scrambling. The quickest route is not easy to find, but ascends a short slab (below and to the left are a couple shorter climbs that need some more traffic to clean up), then finds a way through some boulders above.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Deer Leap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Alexandra Reider
Lancaster, PA
Alexandra Reider   Lancaster, PA
I'm going to be staying here 6/7-6/13. Looking to do some climbing but none of the guide website links work. Looks like they're not active anymore. Does anyone have info on this? Also looking for partners as well while I'm there. May 26, 2017
Are there any designated bouldering routes in this area? May 12, 2017
Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
Hi Joseph,

I notified Greg Kuchyt, he's the local go-to guy for bolt replacement in Vermont. I'm sure he will reach out to you and help you diagnose/develop a fix.

EDIT: Scratch that, look for Nick Goldsmith. Apr 28, 2017
The bolts on center crack are getting pretty loose. No surprise as that route is easily the most popular. If anyone has the tools / know-how to replace them I'd be happy to help pay for some new bolts / help install them - message me. Apr 27, 2017
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Travis - the parking is right along route 4, and is also right across / right next to the Inn up there, so it's not a very secluded place, and is not really ideal for breaking in to cars. I have never heard of any issues with break ins, I personally would feel fine leaving my car parked there all day (windows up and doors locked, of course) Jul 15, 2016
Travis Vicary
New Hampshire
Travis Vicary   New Hampshire
Have there been problems with theft from the parking lot here? I'm thinking about heading that in the near future but I don't want my bike disappearing. May 19, 2016
The climbers trail to cliff is very rough, slippery, dangerous and can't be recommended. The established hiking trail is longer, slower, but a safe, less vegetation destructive, tranquil hike up. Takes a gentle 1/2 hour hike.
Once at the "top" of the hiking trail on the big rocky bulge, the climbs don't start there but down a level (looking down at 10:00) where there are some trees. Once at the correct spot (anchors unseen just over the edge of the cliff)... a trail to the climbs base is found on the right side (when looking over the cliff) which looks rough but actually isn't too bad. Sep 11, 2014
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Daniel - Everything on the main face left side can be toproped - there are several sets of bolted anchors, where each anchor can be used for multiple climbs. The shortest path to get to the anchors is to take the direct trail up to the main cliff, and continue around the left side. Many of the lower climbs can also be toproped although if I recall there is often rope rubbing on rock for those (although nothing too serious). Apr 10, 2014
Daniel Kuzio
Plainfield, VT
Daniel Kuzio   Plainfield, VT
Does anyone know if any of the routes here can be accessed from above and top roped? Thanks! Jul 19, 2013
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
As Nick has mentioned on the main page for Vermont, the new website for this area can be found at deerleapclimbing.com Jan 17, 2012

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