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Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs Rock Climbing
Routes in Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs
|Click Your Heels S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Cowardly Lion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Dancing Dwarfs S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Emerald City S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Flying Monkeys S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Goodbye Yellow Brick Road S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Horse Of A Different Color S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Pay No Attention to the Man Behind the Curtain S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Scarecrow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Tin Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Shared By:||Hendrixson on Mar 19, 2008|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThe Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs is located immediately to the right of the Wall of the Marching Munchkins. The formation is a 165ft partially detached tower of blocky, golden and red rock. The rock faces west and sees sun starting around noon, slightly earlier than the neighboring walls. The climbs on the left are reminiscent of those found on the Wall of the Marching Munchkins while those on the right ascend larger, blocky features.
Three routes have second pitches. These routes, which are frequently climbed as single short pitches, are:
Pay No Attention to the Man Behind the Curtain P1: 5.10d, 65ft | P2: 5.12a, 50ft
Horse Of A Different Color P1: 5.11a, 90ft | P2: 5.10d, 50ft
Scarecrow P1: 5.8+, 65ft | P2: 5.10a, 90ft
These routes can be climbed as long single pitches or broken into two. The latter two routes require two rappels to descend while the former can be rappelled with a single 70m rope. The climber has some discretion regarding which first pitch is climbed.
Option #1: After 17 miles on Catalina Highway turn left onto Rose Canyon Road into Rose Canyon Campground. Follow the paved road to the end and park near the lake. As of 2015 the campground is open from mid-April to mid-October and parking entails a $10 per day fee.
Option #2: After 16 miles on Catalina Highway turn left onto Willow Canyon Road. On this gravel road pass primitive cabins turning right, straight, and left at the three intersections. At the summit park in a dirt parking lot on the right side of the road. On foot follow the trail downhill and cross an intermittent stream. Pass a small amphitheater with a boulder and walk through the paved parking lot. This option is free but adds 5 minutes to the approach.
From the circular paved parking lot next to Rose Canyon Lake pick up the trail behind the snack bar on the west side of the parking lot. Hike up a slab until the trail is once again visible at the top left. Follow the trail southwest for 15 minutes passing a 20 foot tall horizontal rock formation. At a clearing take the left fork for the Wall of the Waltzing Witches. For all other crags take the downhill, right fork. Follow the switchbacks through rocks and turn left. The crags are encountered in the following order: The Towers, Wall of the Marching Munchkins, Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs, Lurking Troll Tower????, Wall of the Trundling Trolls, and lastly The Roman Baths.
From far right (south) side of the Wall of the Marching Munchkins head away from wall towards the stream. Hike around a fallen tree and pick up the trail 50 feet or so away from the cliff. Follow this trail as it heads back towards the cliff. There are a number of turn offs for the climbs. The trail eventually intersects the cliff at Flying Monkeys.
Classic Climbing Routes at Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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