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Routes in Cave Crag (Dong Qiang)

75 Kilograms (Qi Shi Wu Gong Jin) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Between the Line (Yi Xian Zhu Jian) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flash (Shan) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Climbing Day (Kuai Le Pan Pa Ri) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Project 1 S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Project 2 S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Project 3 S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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GPS: 25.194, 102.465 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Bob Moseley on Mar 16, 2008
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball
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Description

This is a large cave 70 m upstream from Orange Face and 100 m down from diversion dam. You must swim across the canal to access the climbs. With one exception, first ascents all by Wang Zhiming and Liu Xinan, May 2002 and Wang Zhiming, Wang Bin, and Liu Xinan, May 2003. See Cave Crag BETA PHOTO for route locations.

Getting There

GETTING TO SPLASH WALL, ORANGE FACE, AND CAVE CRAG

The road upriver from Fumin leaves you on the west side of the river, while these three crags are on the east side. There are two ways to cross the river depending on the river level, which varies with the season. The easiest way is to cross on the diversion dam about 0.2 km upriver from River Cave (4.9 km from Fumin). During the winter dry season there is no water going over the dam, so you can easily walk across the top. Sometimes there can be a little water coming over the dam, but a crossing can be negotiated on the rocks in the river channel immediately below the dam. Once on the east side, walk downriver on the path along the irrigation canal to the three River Crags. See Fumin Canyon BETA PHOTOS.

During the summer, there is too much water coming over the dam to cross. The alternate access is by the bridge at Lan Ni Tian Village (Lan Ni Tian Cun) about 1 km below the diversion dam. Cross the bridge and walk upriver on the path that follows the outer edge of the irrigation canal.

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