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Jockey Cap Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Jockey Cap

Jockey Cap Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15

Roped 4 / 9 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18

Elevation:	569 ft
GPS:	44.0217, -70.9624 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	44,234 total · 239/month
Shared By:	BDalhaus on Mar 5, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine Details

Maine Peregrine Falcons breeding season extends from mid-March through July or August. Hiking or climbing near nesting peregrines can cause abandonment and death of eggs/young. If adults are away from the nest, eggs or young can become overheated, chilled, or chicks can miss feedings. Be on the lookout for agitated falcons that may vocalize, take avoidance flights, or dive-bomb those that are too close. If you encounter an aggressive peregrine falcon please immediately leave the area, and report incidents to Erynn Call, State Raptor Specialist, MDIFW, erynn.call@maine.gov.

To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out the 2021 Maine Peregrine Falcon Program Report: maine.gov/ifw/docs/2021%20M…

Description

This small granite dome and the boulders scattered at its base offer sport & trad climbing as well as bouldering. Sitting behind a store and a hotel just off the road, this mountain was a ski area in the 1930's. The boulders sit in the shade of the trees while the dome itself is in full sun. The area is more frequented by families out hiking than hardcore climbers, but the quality granite, albeit limited, is worth the visit.

The upper face drys off very quickly, especially in the morning if there's any sun at all.

IME in North Conway has a mini guide. (reproduced here)

Getting There

Jockey Cap is located in the town of Fryeburg on Rt 302. From the intersection of Routes 113 and 302 the trailhead is 1 mile on Rt 302 East. The old parking lot is now a "box store". Look for the Jockey Cap Country Store on your left (and a new "Dollar Saver-type" store on your right). Park to the left of the Country store in a small lot. The trail starts here. The approach is about 3-5 mins. [Parking and location updated 2016, R Hall Adm.]

Be sure not to miss going to the "summit" for the Peary Monument. It lists direction and distance for what seems like about 100 locations.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Jockey Cap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V1 5 15 ● Standard Overhang Boulder Jockey Cap Boul… > Peary Boulder
V1 5 3 ● Crystal Face Boulder Jockey Cap Boul… > Molly’s Boulder
V2 5+ 7 ● Peary Flake Boulder Jockey Cap Boul… > Peary Boulder
V2 5+ 5 ● Ships Prow Boulder Jockey Cap Boul… > Spiritual Boulder
V4 6B 5 ● Jaws Boulder Jockey Cap Boul… > Peary Boulder
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c 9 ● Top Rope Area Trad, TR Roped
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 21 ● Standard Crack Trad, TR Roped
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 4 ● "Peary Face" Left & Right Sport, TR Roped
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 5 ● The Disappearing Act TR Roped
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 4 ● White Ledge TR Roped
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 5 ● "Peary Gates" Left & Right Sport, TR Roped