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Routes in Jockey Cap

"Peary Face" Left & Right S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
"Peary Gates" Left & Right S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barge Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gorilla Traverse V8+ 7B+
Mako Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Puff Fish, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Standard Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Overhang V1 5
Top Rope Area T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 569 ft
GPS: 44.022, -70.962 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 10,155 total, 85/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Mar 5, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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This small granite dome and the boulders scattered at its base offer sport & trad climbing as well as bouldering. Sitting behind a store and a hotel just off the road, this mountain was a ski area in the 1930's. The boulders sit in the shade of the trees while the dome itself is in full sun. The area is more frequented by families out hiking than hardcore climbers, but the quality granite, albeit limited, is worth the visit.

The upper face drys off very quickly, especially in the morning if there's any sun at all.

IME in North Conway has a mini guide. (reproduced here)
Peregrine Falcons Details

Getting There

Jockey Cap is located in the town of Fryeburg on Rt 302. From the intersection of Routes 113 and 302 the trailhead is 1 mile on Rt 302 East. The old parking lot is now a "box store". Look for the Jockey Cap Country Store on your left (and a new "Dollar Saver-type" store on your right). Park to the left of the Country store in a small lot. The trail starts here. The approach is about 3-5 mins. [Parking and location updated 2016, R Hall Adm.]

Be sure not to miss going to the "summit" for the Peary Monument. It lists direction and distance for what seems like about 100 locations.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Jockey Cap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
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Westerly, RI
RhodeIslandJeff   Westerly, RI
PDF of Jockeys Cap bouldering.… Aug 13, 2016
Mark Ra
Frange, CO
Mark Ra   Frange, CO
[NOTE: See main description for parking; location has changed since this COMMENT was posted. RHall,Adm 2016] Trailhead parking is at the right end of the motel lot. There is now a porta-pot right next to the start of the trail. Stay right at the fork. You'll hit the boulder field in just a couple of minutes. If you go left you will see what looks like an old trail over by the store and eventually you'll hit a power line clear cut. So if you see the clear cut then turn around and go the other way. Ask me how I know.

I posted a few pictures of the boulders but am unsure of the routes. Some nice and easy stuff to play around on with good landings and extremely easy access. Lots of families hiking the dome. Oct 30, 2014
Tristan Baldwin
Amherst, NH
Tristan Baldwin   Amherst, NH
The south face is very warm in the winter. I climbed this in about 25 degree weather, but bright sun. The rock was warm and climbing was very pleasant. I assume this area must be extremely hot in the summer on a sunny day. This area will certainly be my preferred winter sport crag.

Also a stick clip is mandatory! A groundfall would be disastrous as the routes start about 30' up a steep slab. Also a gear anchor for your belayer isn't a bad idea either. Dec 1, 2013
Steven James
Portland, Maine
Steven James   Portland, Maine
As of 5/1/2013 the sport climb all the way to the right on the main wall has only one hanger without a rappel ring over the edge and no anchor above it which makes for very difficult cleaning of draws on the route. For clarity, this is NOT the sport climb way around the right end's corner.

For maybe twenty feet of climbing though; with large moves, positive holds, exciting heel hooks and a mantel top out, the route was definitely worth it. Felt easier than the grade in the "North Conway Rock Climbs" guidebook, but it is also my style of climbing, so who knows! May 1, 2013
Danvers, MA
000   Danvers, MA
I would whole-heartedly disagree with the sentiments of the op. This area is interesting and well worth the super short approach.

There are three main boulders that are easily accessed. Dr. Topo has a perfect guide that is easily understood and highly accurate. Each of the three boulders houses about 10-15 problems; a couple of which would be considered mega classics. A great area to bring beginners as well as intermediate V2-3 climbers.

I have yet to undertake any of the 5.6-9 trad climbs or the significantly more difficult sport routes. I plan to return this Saturday for some sport climbing and lead cragging, hopefully I'll be able to comment on the non-bouldering aspects of Jockey's Cap then.

As for mosquitos, you basically shouldn't be outside in ME between June and September. That being said, this is an interesting spot with a full afternoon's worth of climbing that might provide the perfect change of pace from Cathedral and White Horse. Nov 22, 2009
We went out to see this place because I'd heard some good things.

Basically, the mosquitos drove us off in 10 minutes. They are worse than Alaska(at least on 7/28/09).

There look to be some cool boulders and some hard sport, but, IMHO, it is not worth the stop considering that cathederal and whitehorse are 30 minutes away.

  • **EDIT-UPDATE***
I went back a couple days this summer and mosquitos were much better, so I think it is hit or miss.

I found the moderate trad cragging, which looks fun. I didn't get that far the first visit before dropping of blood loss.

I'll definetly soften my criticism, but still don't really see myself stopping here unless I've climb so much out near Conway that I'm getting sick of it. I guess it just depends on your agenda. Jul 29, 2009

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