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Routes in Long Island

Iliad, The TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Long Island Iced Tea V4 6B R
Odyssey , The V3+ 6A+

Description

The area was developed by Phil Fisher and Robyn Erbesfield in the late 1980's. From the short approach trail you will first come to a few small overhanging boulder problems in the V0-V2 range. Then you will notice a bolted overhang that is supposedly 5.10-5.11. Keep walking and you will find a few other boulder problems and then a large boulder/formation with a bolt on top. From this bolt you can top rope two separate problems on this formation. The one on the right is much easier than the left. I would suggest not going to this place in the summer, the insects are unbearable.

Getting There

This area is a small cliff band located near the Chattahoochee River National park on 41(Cobb Pkwy). To get there follow 41 south from 285. Just after passing Pizza Construction and a few strip malls you will see the bridge on the river. At that point you will see the cliff band on the left. Parking is available at Paces Mill/Palisades West which is on the left just before the bridge when heading south on 41. The fee is $3 by honor system. Walk to the area by crossing the 41 bridge on the pedestrian sidewalk.

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Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
Susan, I think you're off by a few states... May 24, 2017
Hi All: I work at a non-profit human services agency on Long Island. We are hosting an outdoor rappelling event called OVER THE EDGE on Saturday, July 1st, at The Tower on the campus of Nassau Community College. The Tower is 13 stories/170 feet tall. Bob Nystrom, NY Islanders legend, outdoor enthusiasts, and community-minded supporters are coming out in support of people in need throughout Long Island and the five boroughs of NYC including Queens, Brooklyn, the Bronx, Staten Island and New York City. Any interest? I can be reached at susan.fragale@eac-network.org, and am happy to share information with you. It is a fundraising event. Volunteers rappel for free, and other slots are open for those helping to raise support and awareness for programs and services that protect children, promote healthy families and communities, help seniors (our Meals On Wheels service is amazing), and empower individuals to take control of their lives. Thanks for your consideration!!! May 23, 2017
spellstrike
Duluth
spellstrike   Duluth
Crag is just a few feet from the road. There is a wide pedestrian sidewalk on the bridge now.

Bolt Report:

3 bolts on farthest rock formation from the road somewhat next to each other. 1 of these look newer and not as rusted as the other two. Appears to be one route here that is doable. If you are careful it's possible to get to them from the top if you follow the trail at the end around to the top. I couldn't see these bolts from below.

1 probably Rusty bolt above the formation near the road that appears to be a traverse like crack. Not sure how useful this bolt is considering you can't get to it without rappelling.

If you plan to climb here bug spray is a good idea. Jun 6, 2016
BrendanN
Atlanta, GA
BrendanN   Atlanta, GA
Edit: Page updated with new access info.

I may also be revisiting this location in attempt to find the routes that others have done but not named or made official, so if anyone has route names or FA info, I'd appreciate any help in improving this area's page! Jan 17, 2016
There is now a parking area on the left as you head south on 41--part of the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area (Palisades). Not that it helps with access, though! The cliff line is on the opposite side of the river, across a no-pedestrian bridge, and the pull-off that was right near the approach trail is now blocked by Jersey barriers.

Apparently all the long legs spiders in the entire southeast must originate from this cliff. I was here in 2012--a long time after the other comment--and we had the same surreal experience with tons of spiders! Nov 14, 2013
I went here last year during the summer with Justin to do some toproping after work and was amazed at the number of Long Legs Spiders. After dropping the rope down we took turns whipping it back and forth across the face to clear it of the thousands of spiders. We would look up and it would seem like we made no progress, the face was still covered and they were all bobbing up and down with anger. Very surreal!!!

Besides that it is a pretty chill place, good view of the river and the routes are more like boulder problems a little to tall for comfort. Maybe 30' at the tallest. Feb 27, 2008

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