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Areas in Box Springs Mountain Park

Box Slab 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Box Springs Mt Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Crack Towers 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
House of Tudor 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Knob Wall 1 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Main Wall Left 5 / 8 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Main Wall Right 3 / 3 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
OW- Offwidth World 1 / 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Sleepers Wall 1 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Two Trees Trail Area 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Description

Box Springs Mountain Park in Riverside offers some very nice climbing on good granite, if you don’t mind short climbs. There are some walls of greater height but they are in more remote locations and are to my knowledge undeveloped. Six main walls lie within easy access, surrounded by many smaller boulders, offering great potential for bouldering problems. Most of the climbs are bolted sport routes but there are a few nice cracks that protect well on gear. There are several TR problems but then most of the lines in Box Springs can be easily set up for top-rope. Although certainly not a destination crag, Box Springs is a great place to spend the day when the more popular spots in Southern California are experiencing highs in the 40’s or 50’s; Riverside tends to be 10 or more degrees warmer than the high desert. There are potential access problems for the climbing areas of Box Springs; please be sure to read the following directions as well as any access updates that may be posted.

A note regarding star ratings: The routes here are very short and it has been my experience that most climbers don’t think much of short routes. Therefore they tend to be quite stingy when it comes to awarding stars. I have always held that star ratings should be specific to the area; call it a suggestion as to the better (or worse) climbs in that area. That being said, a 4 star climb in an area such as this probably could never compare to even a 2 star route in Owens or Williamson. But even a one star route in Box Springs has something fun or challenging to offer and is worthy of a go.
Parking listed elsewhere is on private property Details

Getting There

Box Springs Mountain Park is located just off the CA-60 in Riverside, on the flanks of Box Springs Mountain, up behind the UC Riverside. If coming from LA or points north, take the CA-60 east and exit to Blaine St. east. If coming from points south or east (San Diego, Moreno Valley), take the CA-60 west and exit Watkins Dr. north. This takes you through a residential neighborhood with plenty of stop signs but avoids most of the aggravation of the perpetually-under-construction CA-60. From Watkins, turn right on Blaine. Park at the wide gravel area at the end of Blaine.

Note: While there is a closer parking area listed elsewhere, it requires parking on and walking through private property. Although the use of this undeveloped house lot is apparently okay with the owners, I would advise that we avoid potential problems and park at the end of Blaine. The extra 5 – 10 minutes hiking that this adds is over easy ground with little vertical gain.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Box Springs Mountain Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Knobulator
TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Green Crack
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Big Bang
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pimple Patrol
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Solarizer
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Heart
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Devil Man
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Weak Sister
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Evil Eye
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Good Son
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Jerry Seinfeld
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hands off the Crack
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blue Collar
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drill Music
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Knobulator Knob Wall 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a TR
Green Crack Two Trees Trail Area 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
Big Bang Two Trees Trail Area 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Pimple Patrol Knob Wall 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Solarizer Two Trees Trail Area 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Broken Heart Main Wall Left 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Devil Man Main Wall Left 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Weak Sister Main Wall Left 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Evil Eye Main Wall Left 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Good Son Main Wall Left 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Little Jerry Seinfeld Main Wall Left 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hands off the Crack Main Wall Left 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blue Collar Knob Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Drill Music Sleepers Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Box Springs Mountain Park »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
Boy, there's a ton of bad beta and bad "maps" to the Main Wall here. Today, we tried to get there via the directions given in numerous photos and it took an hour to get to the wall from the parking lot. Because of all the rain, the weeds (now dead and dry) are dense and tall, and most are either foxtails or those horrible grasses with seed heads that look like caterpillars that are covered with glass-like tiny needles. Ugh. On the way back, we went the right way, and got from the crag to the car in 10 minutes.

I just posted an image of a simple little map i made in google earth. It shows the sanctioned parking lot, a blue like that is the roads you walk on, the aforementioned house site where you shouldn't park, the short trail from the road to the crag (in yellow) and the Main Wall.

Do yourself a favor and ignore the rest of the directions here. This approach will save you a lot of time and aggravation, at least now, or at any time of the year when weeds are in abundance, which appears to be pretty often here. Apr 17, 2017
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Thanks Chris D for all the new approach beta - apparently things have really changed in the last 9 years! May 16, 2017
Went here and I have to agree with Chris. It is really over grown and all the other maps can't be followed with all the bushes covering the trails. I wish I would have done alittle more research cause it took me an hour to get to the main wall also. Follow the map he posted with the blue lines on google maps. I highly recommend waiting until the hill is less dense with plants though... also does anyone have pictures of the big wall, or aids wall. I want to go back and check it out sometime but there isn't much info on it. Apr 23, 2017
Ryan U.  
The undeveloped lot at the base of the hill in now closed off with a berm and boulders. One undeveloped lot, before the dirt road still has "access." Non climbers were parked there but park at your own discretion.

BTW it's beautiful up there right now and weather is perfect!!! Feb 25, 2017
Daniel T
Riverside, Ca
Daniel T   Riverside, Ca
Went climbing in this area over the weekend. Its a great little hidden gem that doesnt get a lot of traffic.

Does anyone have any info on the big wall area? We climbed a few routes (or parts of routes) there and it was awesome. We started out by rapping down to a nice little ledge, maybe 20 feet. There is a nice crack and a nice face ro climb. It looks like there is maybe 3 to 5 bolted routes. This could also be the aid wall, im not too sure. if I could see a photo I could be sure. Regardless it was a fun local day. Nov 30, 2015
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Greg, Dane - try PMimg Aaron Rough. He developed most of Box Springs and would most likely be able to best answer your questions. Aug 26, 2015
D.L.  
The gate by the trail to the main climbing area has a "no trespassing" sign. Are there any trails to the main wall which stay within the park boundary? Jun 22, 2015
Gregory D
La Verne
Gregory D   La Verne
Does anyone have information on, or know who I would contact in regards to the previously "undeveloped areas" mentioned in the description? Apr 24, 2015
It looks like you can now park closer. I haven't been here in over a year, so I was surprised to see a new-ish sign on Two Trees allowing parking. Nov 19, 2012

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