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Areas in Willard (Ice)

East Face - Lower 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
East Face - Upper 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
South Face - Lower 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 9
South Face - Upper 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Trestle Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 4
Willey Brook 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 5
Elevation: 2,865 ft
GPS: 44.203, -71.41 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 37,905 total, 316/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

Though I wouldn't describe this area as an "alpine" area, it is very exposed and can be very cold in bad weather. The approach is somewhat technical and to retreat from some of the upper routes requires a rappel and some technical 4th class downclimbing.

The routes are spread out along the east and south faces. The East face can be broken into the lower and upper cliff bands and contain some great moderate climbs like Hitchcock Gully and the East Face Slabs as well as some tough mixed lines, like Dial M for Murder. The south face has a variety of climbs like the numbered gullies, Great Madness, and the Cinema Gully.

The routes offer great views over the notch and the large amount and variety of routes make Mt. Willard feel like an alpine playground.

Getting There

Park at the top of the Notch in a plowed out parking lot, just south of the AMC Highland Center. Many hiking trails leave from this lot so it tends to fill up early. Walk south along the railroad tracks to the bottom of the area in which you plan to climb.

30 Total Climbs

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Location: Mt. Willard (Ice) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Willard (Ice)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
Left Hand Monkey Wrench
Ice
WI3+
East Face Slab Right
Ice
WI2
Cinema Gully
Ice 3 pitches
WI3
Elephant Head Gully
Ice
WI4
Read Between The Lines
Trad, Ice
WI4
Gully 1
Ice
WI3
Trestle Gully
Ice
WI5
Great Madness
Ice 2 pitches
WI2+
The Cleft
Ice 2 pitches
WI4
Rear Window
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3
East Face Slab
Ice
WI4-5 M5
The Snot Rocket
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-
Upper Hitchcock Gully
Trad, Ice
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-
Hitchcock Gully
Ice 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4
Damsel in Distress
Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left Hand Monkey Wrench E Face - Lower WI3 Ice
East Face Slab Right E Face - Upper WI3+ Ice
Cinema Gully S Face - Lower WI2 Ice 3 pitches
Elephant Head Gully Trestle Area WI3 Ice
Read Between The Lines E Face - Upper WI4 Trad, Ice
Gully 1 S Face - Lower WI4 Ice
Trestle Gully Trestle Area WI3 Ice
Great Madness S Face - Lower WI5 Ice 2 pitches
The Cleft E Face - Upper WI2+ Ice 2 pitches
Rear Window E Face - Upper WI4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
East Face Slab E Face - Upper WI3 Ice
The Snot Rocket Trestle Area WI4-5 M5 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Upper Hitchcock Gully E Face - Upper WI3- Trad, Ice
Hitchcock Gully E Face - Lower 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3- Ice 2 pitches
Damsel in Distress E Face - Upper 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4 Ice
More Classic Climbs in Willard (Ice) »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
There's a broken piece of grating on the first (I think) railroad bridge you get to when heading out to the Mt. Willard climbs. I was walking out in the dark by headlamp yesterday and stepped on a piece of grating which had fallen through on one end. It bent significantly with my weight but thankfully held me from falling through. This is a pretty serious hazard.

EDIT: Guess this has been like this for a while. Still think it should get fixed or someone's gonna fall through eventually. Jan 24, 2016

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