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Cannon Ice Climbs

New Hampshire > NH Ice & Mixed > - Franconia Notch

Description

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Getting There

tba

Routes from Left to Right

WI3
 3
La Deepfreeze
Ice 3 pitches
WI5+
 4
Omega
Ice 3 pitches
M8 R
 2
Across the Great Divide
Trad, Mixed 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4+ M3
 171
Black Dike
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI5 M4-5
 3
Dark Crystal and Hassig's
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI5 M4
 24
Fafnir
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
M7+
 2
Daedalus
Trad, Mixed 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
La Deepfreeze
 3
WI3 Ice 3 pitches
Omega
 4
WI5+ Ice 3 pitches
Across the Great Divide
 2
M8 R Trad, Mixed 6 pitches
Black Dike
 171
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4+ M3 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Dark Crystal and Hassig's
 3
WI5 M4-5 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Fafnir
 24
WI5 M4 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Daedalus
 2
M7+ Trad, Mixed 7 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cannon Cliff in full on cold January conditions...
[Hide Photo] Cannon Cliff in full on cold January conditions...
The top of Fafnir and the rest of Cannon at sunrise. Jan 1999
[Hide Photo] The top of Fafnir and the rest of Cannon at sunrise. Jan 1999
A Wintery Whitney Gilman Ridge
[Hide Photo] A Wintery Whitney Gilman Ridge
Approaching Cannon on a rather Scottish looking day
[Hide Photo] Approaching Cannon on a rather Scottish looking day
Alex Teixeira of Mooney Mountain Guides launching off on the crux pitch of Fafnir
[Hide Photo] Alex Teixeira of Mooney Mountain Guides launching off on the crux pitch of Fafnir
Climbers getting started on the Dike - Jan 1999. Shot from the top of Fafnir after hiking up and rapping down to this early morning view
[Hide Photo] Climbers getting started on the Dike - Jan 1999. Shot from the top of Fafnir after hiking up and rapping down to this early morning view
Cannon in the winter.<br>
www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com
[Hide Photo] Cannon in the winter. www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com
Mark Richey and Freddie Wilkinson new routing to the right of Omega. <br>
<br>
www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com
[Hide Photo] Mark Richey and Freddie Wilkinson new routing to the right of Omega. www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] There are a couple of new routes on Cannon. one is left of Omega near the giant right facing corner of Henderson's Buttress. The climbed is called Mean Streak and it probably a WIE7M8? It difficult to say the least. Andy Tuthill and ? did the route. I think it was 2010. The other route was done by Mark Richey and ?. Its recent. I don't know its name or its location. There's a you tube video of the ascent. It looks like there on the south side somewhere. Feb 20, 2012
Reggie Pawle
Boston, MA
[Hide Comment] Brad, is this the route by Mark Richey and Freddie Wilkinson you were thinking of? bagleyheavybags.blogspot.co…

Mean Streak is reported to be WI6 M7 and was climbed by Will Mayo and Andy Tuthill on December 11, 2007. Source: alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/…

Bayard Russell also has an awesome topo of Cannon's big wall section on his blog: whitemountainrockandice.com… Feb 24, 2012
[Hide Comment] Thanks, for the link ups. Bagleyheavybags is removed. It looked like Mark Richey was on TOM, TOM when I watched a youtube cannon winter ascent of him. Dec 19, 2012
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
[Hide Comment] Perhaps someone would be willing to do some Mountain Project write-ups of these routes? This would be great for the Mark Richey / Freddie Wilkinson ascent north of Omega as I have found the least information on this particular climb. Icarus, Daedalus, the Minotaur, and Mean Streak all have great topos and route descriptions on other sites and blogs. I feel that our online guidebook is especially lacking as far as Cannon's winter alpine world is concerned. These are some of greatest marks of New England alpinism, and I would very much like to see them cataloged here. Feb 25, 2013
[Hide Comment] Went up today and the snow was deeeep, but well bonded. Ice was quite interesting, thin and brittle.

I left one nomic without pick weights on the ground on the south side of the parking lot; if anyone finds it I’ll buy you a bunch of beer! I’m in Boston but can pick up wherever. Feb 10, 2018