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Areas in Ice and Mixed Climbing

Ace of Spades Crag 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Arethusa Falls 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 2
Bear Mountain (near Newfound Lake) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1
Cannon Ice Climbs 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 4
Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 7
Champney Falls 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Dixville Notch 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Echo Crag Ice Climbs 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Flume, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Frankenstein Ice Climbs 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 39 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 42
Garfield Crag 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 2 / 7 / 7
Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch) 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 6
Holts Ledge 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Ice and Mixed Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 21
Kinsman Notch 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 7
Lower Baker Pond Ice Arena (Slander Crag) 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 6 / 9 / 9
Mahoosuc Notch 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Mount Moosilauke 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Mount Washington & Presidentials (Adams, Jeff. etc) 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 1 / 14 / 14
Mt Major 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Mt. Avalon 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Mt. Huntington (Ice) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 2
Mt. Lafayette 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Mt. Lincoln 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 3 / 3
Mt. Lowell (Carrigain Notch) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 2
Mt. Tom 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Mt. Webster - Winter Ice & 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 5 / 10 / 10
Mt. Willard (Ice) 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 30
Mt. Willey 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Newfound Lake 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 6
Oliverian Notch 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 1 / 4 / 4
Painted Walls Ice Climbs 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 2
Pawtuckaway 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Polar Caves (CLOSED) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Rainbow Slabs - Winter Ice 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Rumney Ice Climbs 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 46 / 0 / 8 / 1 / 46
Sandwich Notch Ice 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Stonehouse Pond 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Tenny Mountain 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Texaco Amphitheater 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Texaco Slab 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Trollville (Duckshead) 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 5
West Rattlesnake Ice 4 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 4
Whitehorse Ice Climbs 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 2
Wilderness Woods 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Elevation: 645 ft
GPS: 44.037, -71.119 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 334,235 total, 2,783/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Feb 1, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

New Hampshire offers some of the best ice climbing in the lower-48. Maybe it's the fact that winters tend to be long and wet, or maybe it's the fact that summers tend to be short and humid and wet, but in winter, ice seems to form on every piece of exposed rock. Be it the road cuts on Interstate 93, the grungy summer sport climbs at Rumney, the moss-filled chimneys at Cathedral Ledge, or the shady reaches of Cannon Cliff, chances are each of these surfaces sports a worthwhile ice objective (except the road cut, which would be an illegal objective).

Most of the ice climbing activity in New Hampshire is focused around Frankenstein Cliff. Its easy access, proximity to North Conway, and numerous crag-style ice routes all assure that this ice destination will remain popular and crowded throughout the winter. Those looking for more of an adventure will certainly find it in the form of brutal cold and full-on conditions on Cannon Cliff, the premier alpine climbing setting in the Northeast. For the technical, demanding, multi-pitch and often mixed experience, look to the proud routes on Cathedral Ledge. Finally, for that quick ice-burn, check out Rumney for a bunch of shorter, often thin routes.

Mt. Washington, the highest point in New England and home of "the world's worst weather" offers both ice and alpine climbing in a serious, mountain setting. Despite it's modest height (by "out-west" standards), this mountain has brought about more than its share of tragedies.

Getting There

Ice is everywhere in this state. View the individual pages for directions to your chosen destination.

285 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ice and Mixed Climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5 M4-5
Repentance
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI3
Pinnacle Gully
Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI3+
Chia
Ice
WI4+
Dracula
Ice
WI4
The Penguin
Ice 2 pitches
WI2
Shoestring Gully
Ice, Alpine 6 pitches
WI3
Left Hand Monkey Wrench
Ice
WI4+
Hobbit Couloir
Ice
WI3+
Pegasus
Ice
WI3 M3
Pegasus Rock Finish
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI3+
Standard Route
Ice 2 pitches
WI2-3
Odell's Gully
Ice, Alpine
WI2+
The Cleft
Ice 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-
Hitchcock Gully
Ice 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4-5 M3
Black Dike
Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Repentance Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs WI5 M4-5 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Pinnacle Gully Mount Washington… > Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice C… WI3 Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Chia Frankenstein Ice… > Amphitheater Area WI3+ Ice
Dracula Frankenstein Ice… > Dropline Area WI4+ Ice
The Penguin Frankenstein Ice… > Standard Route Area WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Shoestring Gully Mt. Webster - Winter Ice & WI2 Ice, Alpine 6 pitches
Left Hand Monkey Wrench Mt. Willard (Ice) > E Face - Lower WI3 Ice
Hobbit Couloir Frankenstein Ice… > Amphitheater Area WI4+ Ice
Pegasus Frankenstein Ice… > Amphitheater Area WI3+ Ice
Pegasus Rock Finish Frankenstein Ice… > Amphitheater Area WI3 M3 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Standard Route Frankenstein Ice… > Standard Route Area WI3+ Ice 2 pitches
Odell's Gully Mount Washington… > Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice C… WI2-3 Ice, Alpine
The Cleft Mt. Willard (Ice) > E Face - Upper WI2+ Ice 2 pitches
Hitchcock Gully Mt. Willard (Ice) > E Face - Lower 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3- Ice 2 pitches
Black Dike Cannon Ice Climbs 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4-5 M3 Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Ice and Mixed Climbing »

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Ice Climbing is the most fun thing to do with your human existence on this earth. Oct 13, 2016

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