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Breakfast Wall

New Mexico > New Mexico, oth… > Last Chance Canyon

Description

This wall currently only has a handful of moderate routes, but the potential for new lines, should the bolting ban currently in effect be lifted, is immense.

The wall faces east, and features a wide variety of terrain, from low angle slabs to overhanging caves.

Getting There

Continue down-canyon (north) from the Beer Garden for several hundred yards. Stay in the canyon until you are directly below the central section of the cliff, and locate a good trail that switch-backs up the hillside to the cliff. This is the furthest down-canyon area with existing routes.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Rice Kris Pies
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Lucky Charms
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Cream of Wheat
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 10
Malt-O-Meal
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 12
Oatmeal
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 44
Frosted Flakes
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 28
Erika on Toast
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rice Kris Pies
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Lucky Charms
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cream of Wheat
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Malt-O-Meal
 10
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Oatmeal
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Frosted Flakes
 44
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Erika on Toast
 28
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overview of the Breakfast Wall.  All of the routes shown here appear to be of moderate difficulty.
[Hide Photo] Overview of the Breakfast Wall. All of the routes shown here appear to be of moderate difficulty.
This undeveloped cliff is directly across the canyon from the Breakfast Wall.  This wall faces West.
[Hide Photo] This undeveloped cliff is directly across the canyon from the Breakfast Wall. This wall faces West.
This massive, undeveloped cliff is down canyon from the Breakfast Wall.  It would be a pretty long hike from the LCC parking lot, but there's a lot of rock down there!
[Hide Photo] This massive, undeveloped cliff is down canyon from the Breakfast Wall. It would be a pretty long hike from the LCC parking lot, but there's a lot of rock down there!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Craig Childre
Lubbock, TX
[Hide Comment] The landing is out in the sun. Typically, everyone unloads down in the cave section, which is a great place to spread out in the shade and have lunch. Please just take out whatever you bring in. This spot get sun early and shade late. Great winter warm up spot, and the best area to bring first timers. Feb 4, 2008
Craig Childre
Lubbock, TX
[Hide Comment] Gillet was working on putting in bolts about 300 yards left of (6). I am not sure if the work was finished before the ban came into effect.

If completed the line climbs a three tiered roof section at ~5.10-. Feb 25, 2008
Michael Gillit
Lubbock, TX
[Hide Comment] Breakfast wall routes are named as follows from right to left.
1. Erika On Toast .10a Shares start with Frosted Flake. Climbs face on wall right of corner.
2. Frosted Flake 5.7 right trending slab to corner/ flake
3. Robitschex 5.4 slab to chains. Bolted for new leaders at their comfort level
4. Not My Flake To Wear 5.4 slab to huge ledge and more slab to chains in orange rock scar. This flake was 5 foot by 10 foot and about a foot thick, when it "Magically" left the building.
5. Ain't No Post Toasties .10a face climbing approx. 30 yards left of #4.
6. Back Labor .10a slab to short face climb left of #5

These are the names of the routes as they were when established. Great place for morning sun with friends and new leaders. Feb 23, 2016