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Routes in Silverado Mine

Beginner's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Bolt Route T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dynamite Cave V4 6B
Dynamite Crack V1 5
Dynamite Traverse V2 5+
Fir Tree Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fir Tree Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Fractured Seam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jamcrack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mine Shaft T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Mossy Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mossy Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Right Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shattered Slab T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Description

Cool shady canyon in the forest, popular for easy to moderate top rope climbing, and rappelling on broken volcanic rock. Not the most aesthetic location in the park, but closest to the car.

This is the mouth of the old Silverado Mine where in 1883 Robert Louis Stevenson honeymooned and wrote "Silverado Squatters" in a cabin near the present day trailside monument which honors the site. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_S…
The overview map here shows this as a quarry, but it was actually used for mining silver, and mercury. If you poke around in the woods nearby you will find some old mine shafts which used to connect.

Getting There

From the parking area walk up the trail until you come to the monument to Robert Louis Stevenson. Head up steep scree to the obvious cliffs/mine to the west. Top rope anchors can be reached by 4th class scrambling around from the south, or via a trail along the North rim. There are a few bolts but bring slings and gear.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Silverado Mine

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Corner
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Overhang
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shattered Slab
Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bolt Route
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left Corner 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Overhang 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
Shattered Slab 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Bolt Route 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Silverado Mine »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Volunteers with BACC and RIM club did trail improvements and maintenance on the trail to the quarry and the climber's trail next to it that goes up to the fire road on October 17.

To get to the quarry from the "book" monument, take the well defined trail that does a big switchback right to left and avoids going straight up the rocky gully. It is also better to access the top rope chains by continuing up the steep improved trail to the top then wrap around (see Floyd's comments). Oct 20, 2015
If you plan to climb in Silverado Mine during the weekend, be aware that REI often teaches a basic rock climbing course. If you see their well marked van in the parking lot, you can assume that several routes will be occupied by the class. However, the instructors are very tolerant of other climbers and willing to share routes. Jun 5, 2012
To set up a top-rope from the entrance to the mine, scramble up the right rim of the mine, hop across boulders at the upper end of the mine to the left rim of the mine (anchor 6), and then scramble class 4 along the narrow ridge (anchors 4 and 5) to a wider class 3 ridge (anchors 1-3). Here is a description of the top-rope anchors for each climb, from left to right (kudos to the climber who recently installed new bolts and chains):

Anchor 1: two bolts with quick links (installed late 2015?)
  • Beginner's Route 5.4
  • Fir Tree Crack 5.6

Anchor 2: two bolts with quick links (installed early 2015?)
  • Fir Tree Overhang 5.7'

Anchor 3: two bolts and a chain (installed late 2016?), should be backed up to an anchor above
  • Overhang 5.9

Anchor 4: three bolts (hanger missing on left bolt) with a new chain and an old chain (installed late 2016?)
  • Bolt Route 5.10b/c
  • Left Corner 5.9

Anchor 5: two bolts with chains (installed early 2015?)
  • Shattered Slab 5.10a
  • Right Corner 5.7 with left traverse finish

Anchor 6: two bolts with chains (installed early 2015?)
  • Right Corner 5.7 with right gully finish
  • Fractured Seam 5.8
  • Jamcrack 5.7

Anchor 7: large tree
  • Dihedral 5.5
  • Mine Shaft 5.6

LAST UPDATE: 03-14-17 Jun 5, 2012
Not only is the Silverado Mine the closest climbing area (0.8 miles by switchback trail, 0.3 miles by climber's trail), it is also the coolest during hot weather, with copious shade at the base. At first glance the climbs look unaesthetic and even frightening with broken up rocks, but the holds are mostly solid and clean (but beware of loose rocks), featuring comfortable hand and finger cracks and edges in contrast with the sometimes painful solution pockets elsewhere on the mountain. Because most climbs can be safely protected on lead with solid gear placements (there is only one bolt, protecting the crux on the hardest climb), the Silverado Mine is an excellent place for beginning and moderate trad climbing. Oct 27, 2008

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