Elevation: 4,583 ft
GPS: 38.59, -109.636 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,827 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Jan 15, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This spire is next to the canyon wall and passed when walking to Gold Bar Tower. This spire has a crack that runs through it, offering two routes to the summit. Both of these routes share the last 15' to the summit. It is unknown if the longer route on the side away from the canyon wall has been climbed.

Also, this route is called 'Hang Nail' in the High on Moab guidebook and was  called 'Golden Nugget' on this web page for 10+ years before the real name was discovered.

Getting There

To get to Pyrite Tower follow the rim up canyon staying left to an obvious spire next to the canyon wall above you. Hike is 15-30 min.

1 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pyrite Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Chimney Route
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Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chimney Route
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
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What does it mean? Aka hangnail? Which is it? FA party should name. Mar 15, 2017
EJD, if you know the FA party I'd love to hear what they originally called it. Mar 17, 2017
Do you mean that neither of those names come from the FA? Apr 4, 2017
That's correct. Matt and I climbed this thing in '07 and found bolts on top so we gave it the tentative name of Golden Nugget since it was next to Gold Bar Tower. 7 years later the book High in Moab came out and had this tower listed as Hang Nail. I'm not sure if that name was from the first ascent party or not so I left both. As I said in the description that I wrote in '07 if some one knew the name the first ascent party gave the tower I'd gladly change the name. Apr 27, 2017
Tim Burnet and I did the first ascent of this route after climbing Gold Bar
Tower on about 1999 or so. It is called Pyrite Tower. We started in the chimney. I can't really remember who lead which pitch.
Steve Seats aka Roadie Apr 7, 2018