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Bradbury Mountain State Park (CLOSED to Climbing Oct '17) Bouldering


Areas in Bradbury Mountain State Park (CLOSED to Climbing Oct '17)

Cornerstone, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Lodestone, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Lower Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Southern Boulder Patch 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Vulcan Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 270 ft
GPS: 43.9, -70.18 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Patrick Bagley on Dec 11, 2007 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

Quaint boulders nestled among forests and furry woodland creatures.

Heinously sharp, large grain granite boulders- crystals are the dominant feature, also look for sloping aretes, crimps, and the occasional generation hold. Some highballs, lots of potential for new routes. really fun.

Shady and sunny, depends on aspect, etc.

Area closed to climbing Details

Getting There

Exit 24 on I-295 in Maine. If coming from the North, take a left at the end of the ramp and follow obvious signs.

Once at Bradbury Mountain St. Park, take an immediate right after the gate to the lower parking lot. Head up trail at end of parking lot "Summit .6 miles".

Head up trail for a quarter mile-ish, past a few wooden staircases. At Y jxn with small map, head left to overlook. See large signs that state end of Bradbury Mountain State Park, and walk right past them. Head directly down hill.

You should run directly into Southern Boulder or slightly to skier's right of it. The remaining problems are a hundred yards climber's left of Southern Boulder.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bradbury Mountain State Park (CLOSED to Climbing Oct '17)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Good advice about keeping a low profile. Thanks for posting it! Jan 8, 2015
caesar.salad
earth
caesar.salad   earth
FYI: These boulders are on private land. Be respectful and clean up after yourselves. The landowner doesn't mind climbers; let's keep it that way. Jan 7, 2015
Mark Ra
Frange, CO
Mark Ra   Frange, CO
Admittedly I am a terrible novice climber but Bradbury shredded my fingers and I was barely able to climb anything. It's a cool spot and I'll be back when I can give it a better go. Found some easier rock at Jockey Cap.

After flailing around on some of the routes posted here I ended up just lapping short V-easy warm ups on this little rock. I think it was the one you hit first when coming in from the park side. Just above The Cornerstone.
Oct 30, 2014
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Great after class spot for Bates students... sharp but fun and some real gems! Mar 8, 2013
Thanks for sharing the knowledge! I've always wondered about the names and grades of these problems. Bradbury is a very special place, and it's awesome that the landowner is so chill about light use.

What about the problems on the Southwest side of the upper boulder? I really enjoy the highball straight up the middle with the crux being the vertical section down low, crystal pinching gaston, etc. Jul 28, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Thanks for adding this area. I developed the majority of the problems here in the early 90s and will be posting photos of the boulders in the next week or so. Jul 23, 2010
Does anybody have a map showing the routes on the boulders. I've been there climbing many times but I don't know which route is which. Even a hand drawn sketch would be cool! Jun 10, 2009

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