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Ellingwood Peak

Wyoming > Wind River Range > Titcomb Basin Area

Description

The showcase climb on this remote Wind River gem is the 10 pitch 5.6 North Ridge. The route features 1,500 feet of consistent 5.5 - 5.6 rock with excellent face climbing, memorable cracks, long pitches, plentiful ledges, inspiring exposure, and an intricate descent, all in a spectacular alpine setting. Ellingwood is comprised of classic Wind River granite, but expect occasional loose sections on account of the gentle gradient of the peak's ridges.

Ellingwood Peak is part of a cirque that lies just east of Titcomb Basin. This cirque is represented by Fremont Peak, Jackson Peak, Knife Point Mountain, Ellingwood Peak, and Elephant Head (clockwise from the north). The Harrower Glacier, sitting on the northeast slopes of Ellingwood Peak, is a remnant of the sculpting forces of this steep valley (now called Indian Basin due to the area's native history).

Other opportunities in the vicinity include some decent, shorter climbs on the north side of Elephant Head, an enjoyable hike up Fremont Peak (the Winds' second highest), moderate ice couloirs on Jackson Peak (on the other side of Indian Pass), the spectacular long routes flanking the east side of Titcomb Basin proper, and Wyoming's highest point, Gannett Peak.

The peak known as Ellingwood to climbers as a tribute to the prolific Colorado climber Albert Ellingwood (who claimed the first ascent of the peak in 1926 via the Northwest Couloir) is known as Harrower Peak on the USGS quadrangle that covers the area (the Fremont Peak South quad). The namesake Mr. Harrower, a past mayor of Pinedale, died in 1967 and his ashes have subsequently been placed on the 13,052' summit through the combined efforts of multiple parties. Regardless of what you call it, this is an impressive peak in an amazing setting, with lots of high quality rock at a moderate grade.

Getting There

The most direct route to the Indian Basin area and the north side of Ellingwood is via the Elkhart Park trailhead near Pinedale, Wyoming. It's going to be about a 12-15 mile hike in, depending on where you camp.

As with all Wind River climbs, I strongly recommend that you consult Joe Kelsey's Climbing & Hiking in the Wind River Mountains and also carry the relevant topographic maps.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 72
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Ridge
 72
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 10 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Moody Ellingwood
[Hide Photo] Moody Ellingwood
Ellingwood Peak
[Hide Photo] Ellingwood Peak
Ellingwood Peak.
[Hide Photo] Ellingwood Peak.
Ellingwood from upper Indian Basin
[Hide Photo] Ellingwood from upper Indian Basin
Fuzzy pumping water at the base of Ellingwood.
[Hide Photo] Fuzzy pumping water at the base of Ellingwood.
Another photo of the stunning N side. From a 1999 ascent with Eddie Horney. We climbed an independent variation of the classic N Ridge route. We encountered climbing up to 5.9, and found found several historic pitons along our route.
[Hide Photo] Another photo of the stunning N side. From a 1999 ascent with Eddie Horney. We climbed an independent variation of the classic N Ridge route. We encountered climbing up to 5.9, and found found seve…
Late afternoon view of Ellingwood from a campsite at Lake 10,831 - August 2022
[Hide Photo] Late afternoon view of Ellingwood from a campsite at Lake 10,831 - August 2022

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Regier
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] After doing this route, I just want to add that we used a 70m rope, and climbed 9 pitches that were at least 200 feet each, most nearly the full ropelength. We calculated the route length at 1800 feet, without counting the simulclimbing 4th class at the top. Don't underestimate this climb-- it's long! (and awesome)!

In terms of the descent, although it looks improbable, we also found it possible to scramble and carefully downclimb a few bits along the ridge and slightly off either side of the ridge. Mountain sense and routefinding is necessary here, but the "constantly scouting the descent" that the original poster refers to seemed unnecessary. The route down is pretty straight-forward and accurately described. Follow ridge down toward col with Elephant head, then down the scree. Aug 1, 2019