Dead Horse Crag
Colorado
> Glenwood Springs
> Glenwood Canyon
Description
The Dead Horse Crag is a newly developed area in Glenwood Canyon, featuring "Gunks-esque" climbing on hard, compact, horizontally banded quartzite. The climbs are almost exclusively mixed climbs, with a mix of bolts, gear, and an occasional fixed pin. While this crag is only 40 to 50 feet tall, the climbs all pack a punch, as the cliff is steeply overhanging and stays dry in the heaviest of downpours. It's an excellent summer area as you can find ample shade in the morning but it also receives great sun in the second part of the day, making climbing on select winter days a possibility.
All of the climbs here are excellent, in my opinion, and they offer a healthy break from the typical forms of climbing offered on the Western Slope. There are currently eight climbs and one hard project that hasn't been bolted but has anchors. In addition, the setting is nearly unbeatable, as the crag is nestled in a quiet, beautiful recess of Glenwood Canyon.
Bring a single rope, a set of cams to #5 Camalot, a few stoppers and some draws.
Getting There
Park at the Hanging Lake rest area in Glenwood Canyon (exit 125). Hike upcanyon on the paved bike path to the Hanging Lake trail on your left. Go 1/4 mile up the Hanging Lake trail and then take a right on the Dead Horse trail, which immediately crosses the creek. Hike for a few minutes up the Dead Horse trail until you see a small cairn at a grassy break in the trees. This will take you to the base of the right side of the cliff. As you hike up the Dead Horse trail, the cliff will be obvious on your right.
Routes (L->R):
A. Cage Monkey, 9, gear + bolts.
B. Touron Death March, 10-, gear + bolts.
C. Homage, 9, gear + bolts.
D. The Days Between, 10, gear + bolts.
E. Quartzite Jungle, 11, bolts + pin + gear.
F. Surrender to the Air, 11-, bolts + pin + gear.
G. Woober's Day Out, 11-, gear + bolts.
Routes from Left to Right
Glenwood Springs, CO
Anytown, CO
Carbondale, CO
Glenwood Springs, CO
Carbondale, CO
Glenwood Springs, CO
postindependent.com/article…
aspentimes.com/article/2010… Apr 12, 2010
Glenwood Springs, CO
Glenwood ,Co
Glenwood Springs, CO
1977 American Alpine Journal
p. 196
Mike Kennedy, Molly Higgins, and I wondered if a classic rock climb could be done on the not so sound limestone walls of Glenwood Canyon. We made the climb, Death Wish, on April 10. The route is located up the Hanging Lake Trail on the left, identified by a large vertical and overhanging corner. The first two pitches are of F8 and the last crack pitch calls for all kinds of techniques. NCCS III, F10.
Larry V. Bruce, Elk Mountain Climbing Club Jul 8, 2011
Glenwood ,Co
Glenwood Springs, CO