Baron Spire aka Old Smoothie Rock Climbing

On 8/7/20, Baron Spire became one with the talus. It seems likely that the major earthquakes of the spring of 2020 had weakened the support structure of the summit block, as evidence of rockfall and debris was reported by a party in the comments below just days before the collapse. On the evening of August 7th, another earthquake triggered the collapse of the summit block, which looks to have caused severe damage to the SE and E faces below. It is assumed at this time that all of the routes on these faces have been damaged irreparably and should be avoided due to likely structural damage and lingering debris. The routes listed here should be considered historical accounts, as they likely do not exist in anything resembling the posted state any longer. 

This gorgeous hunk of granite is the preeminent spire in this sector of the Sawtooths, and is home to several noteworthy routes. The ubiquitous Fred Beckey, accompanied by Pete Schoening and Jack Schwabland, were the first to the summit of Baron Spire (which they dubbed Old Smoothie) and several other formations in the vicinity. One of Baron's most unique and imposing aspects is its summit block, which is actually a massive boulder perched atop the ridge crest. This 120' tall block is composed of bullet orange granite which overhangs on all sides and is entirely absent of cracks. Over three days in the summer of 1949, Beckey and companions surmounted the summit block via a 22 bolt ladder, which to this day remains the only access to the summit.

Prominent Sawtooth pioneer Reid Dowdle has replaced many of the old bolts, but you'll still have to aid up on some pretty manky pieces, including the infamous drill-bit...just keep in mind the mantra "No Cumbre, No Ruta".

There are now ten recorded routes on Baron Spire. Beckey climbed the South Ridge to the summit block. There is apparently a line up the aesthetic northwest face. Dowdle's north ridge route "The Destroying Angel" V, 5.11 is the Sawtooth's longest free climb at 18 pitches. The Fang is a smaller pillar on the north side, with a six-pitch line which doesn't summit the actual spire. The sunny southeast face holds five grade III routes on excellent rock.

Baron Lake, the middle of the three Baron Lakes, offers several nice campsites and good fishing opportunities. From here, it's a stiff 900' slog uphill to the base of the east face routes--approx. 45 minutes. From the lake, you can contour up the ridge and across to the notch between Baron and Peak 9211' to drop down to the North Ridge and other routes.