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Routes in Tioman Island

Waking Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Elevation: 1,220 ft
GPS: 2.77, 104.17 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,353 total, 19/month
Shared By: David Trippett on Dec 1, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Tioman is a medium-sized island off the southeast coast of Penninsular Malaysia, near Singapore. Well known for spectacular diving and abundant coral reefs, Tioman is less well known for its abundant climbing opportunities. In the south, the island is dominated by the twin towers of The Dragons Horns, although the entire island is home to various crags, boulders, seacliffs and walls of all size and dimension.

Getting There

Tioman can be reached in a 2 hour boat ride from the coastal town of Mersing on the southeast coast of peninsular Malaysia after a flight in from Singapore. From Mersing a bumpy ride across the seas dividing the Island from the mainland deliver you to a small village where you need to take a slow boat to the southern end of the island to a village called Mukut.Mukut is a clean, organized little village dominated by the minaret of the local mosque.

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Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Some beta after a brief stay here...

Getting to Mukut on Tioman is relatively straightforward, although it involves a lot of transfers. It would be advisable to make reservations ahead of time to make sure things go smoothly. Once you arrive at the airport, get to TBS station. From here, take a Transnacional bus to Mersing. The earliest is 9am, which puts you in Mersing around 3pm. The ferry, run by Blue Waters Express, usually runs once a day between 3-5pm, so you might have to hustle to the jetty. Once on the ferry, it takes about 1.5 hours, depending on the conditions, to arrive at the first stop of Genting. This is a decent spot, if you don't plan on doing anything but sunbathing. To get from here to Mukut, you need to make arrangements for a water taxi, which costs 50MYR per person if you've informed Tam, the proprietor of Simukut Hill View. Otherwise it could cost more. An exhilarating 30-minute ride around the most scenic part of the island, passing the slab climbs at Nipah and several other huge granite walls, delivers you to the quaint village of Mukut.

The village itself is not much of an attraction. The only food available is rice, noodles, and chicken in limited permutations. There is a small, idyllic waterfall with a swimming hole not far away. The snorkeling could be fun in June-August, when the turtles are around. But you're here to climb! Tam has all the info you need to find the route of your choice, and then some. He's a colorful character with all kinds of wild stories... ask him about the time he beat Chris Sharma in a climbing competition. The route is well maintained and can be walked in an hour-and-some. Don't believe the horror stories from that Cedar Wright video. If you're not looking for a big wall experience, there are a few boulders on the nearby beach and a few up in the jungle, though these need cleaning or are completely featureless.

My friends Ana Pautler and Matt Girvan took a stab at Damai Sentosa the other day, and will report back on their experience when I hear from them...

Supposedly this route goes at 6c+ (6b+ mandatory) and is accessible to those with a set of draws and a sparse rack, which could be provided by Tam. Feb 22, 2015
Hi knipper,

Apologies - this post may be too late for you. (Hope you had/are having a good time). For others interested in the same question - we rebolted the stances of Waking Dream in August 2013 with a combination of Thaitanium and SS316 bolts (one each per anchor). Double 60's (or 60 + tagline) necessary to descend. (PM me if you'd like more detailed beta.)

Massive corrosion on the original bolts make us concerned for the other routes in the area. Polish Princess and Damai Sentosa are relatively new and *should* be OK ... not sure about the rest.

Busy compiling a blog entry with details - will post a link here once it's live.

(edit: July2014)
Climbed Damai Sentosa last weekend. Bolts are currently OK, but starting to corrode. P4>30m, P5>40m ... so double 50's needed to descend.
Saw Batu Naga bolts as we descended - massive galvanic corrosion, I wouldn't touch the route until it was rebolted.

(edit: August 2015)
In 2015 we added Ti anchors on the rap stations of Damai Sentosa and Polish Princess. With Waking Dream, that makes three cool routes waiting for more ascents. Details at
headlampsclusterfucksandoth… May 3, 2014
knipper  
Wondering if the community had any updates regarding the condition of fixed protection on Southern Tioman island (looking to climb here in April 2014 and will bring trad / aid rack, but can bring bolting equipment too) or links to any updated topo's ? - much appreciated - and i will update this thread post trip with any relevant details too!

Also any gear recommendations? is one 60m (or 80m) rope enough to descend? Mar 13, 2014
brynorm
Singapore
brynorm   Singapore
Just to update this page, the direct ferry from Singapore to Tioman was discontinued several years ago. There used to be a number of boat types taking passengers from Mersing, the jump-off point on the Malaysian East Coast, to Tioman, but they've all been whittled down by the authorities, due to safety issues. Just 2 operators remain.

By the way, bookings can also be made online nowadays. See Tioman Ferry Tickets

Gunung Kajang is the highest point in Tioman. We were there last week, took us 6.5 hours to reach the top and 3.5 hours to come back down. It's not a steep ascent as such, but there are plenty of obstacles to keep things interesting, including solid primary rainforest, countless leaches, huge wasps, ants and hore-flies, barbed thorns, leaf-litter traps and snakes.


Mar 12, 2012
David Trippett
Squamish, BC
David Trippett   Squamish, BC
More new routes on the Horns...

way to go!

rockandice.com/news/1701-ru… Nov 10, 2011
David Trippett
Squamish, BC
David Trippett   Squamish, BC
MORE ACTION ON THE DRAGONS HORNS:

alpinist.com/doc/web11s/new…

alpinist.com/doc/web09f/new… Jun 14, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
A boat from Singapore can also be taken directly, from the WTC at the south end of the island or East coast to the Berjaya resort on Tioman.
The boat runs daily and is ~4-5 hours round trip, but is on a large pleasant catamaran up the coast, with great views. The cost and time are no greater than by going to Mersing first if you are already in Singapore.
The snorkeling on Tioman is great, with Monkey Bay being the best on the main shore, to be reached without a boat. A snorkel tour can be arranged easily and chaeply at your hotel or by walking down the beach. Feb 28, 2008

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