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Squamish Buttress

International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Chief
Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

The Buttress lies on top of The Apron, on the south side of the Rock On Gully. On the North side of the Gully is The Ultimate Everything. The Squamish Buttress route, when linked with several of the Apron routes allows for a full day of climbing to the top of the Chief. In addition to the two multi pitch routes, there are a number of hard single pitch cracks on the final headwall.

Getting There

The Buttress is a nice continuation of several lines that end on the Broadway ledge, including Diedre, Snake and Rock On. The former two require walking Broadway and climbing Memorial Crack (5.) The latter ends at the top of memorial Crack.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 142
The Squamish Butt Face
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Community Service
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 179
The Squamish Buttress
Trad 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
Pan Tease Lower
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Squamish Butt Face
 142
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Community Service
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Squamish Buttress
 179
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Pan Tease Lower
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting up the last "crux" pitch of Butt Face
[Hide Photo] Starting up the last "crux" pitch of Butt Face