All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > N Wonderland Approach

The Looking Glass Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in The Looking Glass

L › R R › L A › Z

	Birthday Crew Arete T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Bone on Bone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Brevis Arbor Fragor T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Double Stem T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Fracture Dynamics T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Pain is an Emotion T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Through the Looking Glass T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

GPS:	34.05296, -116.17629 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	5,485 total · 26/month
Shared By:	Murf on Nov 30, 2007
Admins:	Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

The Looking Glass is a remote portion of the "ridgeline" that runs from The Shady Spot, through Ellsmere Island, Hidden Dome, etc. to the highpoint at Keys Point. The 80' northeast face cannot be seen from the road. As noted in Joshua Tree West, the southwestern exposure is "small, broken, and unimpressive".

Getting There

One way to get there is to follow the approach via Key's Point. From Key's Point, angle down and left to the base of the main northwest face, where Through the Looking Glass and Fracture Dynamics are located..

An alternate method would be to approach on the right side of the Outward Bound Slab. From the right side of the OBS head into the gully, on mostly easy boulder hopping. From the bottom of the ravine, head uphill. Aim to split the gap between the Greenhorn Dome and The Looking Glass. This approach will put you at the base of the Birthday Crew Arete with the main southwest face 150 yards below and to the left.