A secluded and generally shady area about 20 minutes from Santa Fe. There are rarely any other climbers, but often hikers. Rock varies from excellent to total choss with problems ranging from V0 to V10 spread all along the canyon and the surrounding hillsides.
The first area encountered includes an enormous, sandstone overhang with many variations. In the spring the stream can affect low starts. Opposite of the main overhang is a large boulder with several slab problems on the south side and the excellent Hello Panda on the northern arete. Next to that boulder is another massive boulder with some high consequence, low 5th class slabs, some problems with chipped holds, and an excellent overhanging, crack-ish V3 problem on the west side. On the northern hillside above the main area is a tall band of rock with a few problems of varying quality, including The Geisha (V9). About 250 yards up the trail and 10 feet off the trail to the right is the mega classic V5 overhanging traverse, Energy Club. Up on the southern hillside from the main area (traverse up the hillside from the parking lot) is another zone with at least a dozen problems on mostly great rock.
Getting There
Take I-25 north from Santa Fe. Get off on exit 297 (Valencia). Go left underneath I-25 and get back on south bound, drive for about 1 1/2 miles and park in a large pull-off marked by a giant green road sign saying "Canoncito at Apache Canyon". At the north end of the parking lot, cross a drainage and follow trail for about 1/4 of a mile. Cant miss it.
[Hide Photo] Hillside Boulders Amazing holds take you straight up the face to the lip. Either bailout right with the threat of a potentially nasty fall on a rock, or find the hidden crimps up higher over a fla…
[Hide Photo] Hillside Boulders Positive crimps and a two finger pocket get you up this beautiful overhanging face and then commence a desperate mantel.
[Hide Photo] Hillside Boulders are about ten minutes on an obvious trail.
[Hide Photo] Hillside Boulders (L) Low, powerful start and dynamic moves on great holds that vanish at the lip. Traverse right to safety. (V7) (R) High crimp start follows tricky moves left and up. Lower, mo…
[Hide Photo] On the main overhang area. December 2017.
[Hide Comment] I stopped by Apache Canyon when on the way through/past Santa Fe last year, and was distinctly unimpressed. Maybe it was the fact that the stream was pretty high, but there's really not much here to do unless you're into eliminates. I'd drive southwest to the Pond instead, I think.
Apr 12, 2009
[Hide Comment] From the streambed wall, there are problems (v0 - v11)scattered all about the canyon along the trail and up on the hillsides. About 200 in all, some very high quality, some average and some less than great.
Must do's Energy Club v5, Hello Panda v7, Geisha v9, Mrs Doubtfire v10, Hellory v9, Unga Bunga v5.
This place was developed about 10 years ago so may be dirty again by 2010 and show little signs of traffic anymore.
Jan 10, 2010
[Hide Comment] The place is still clean and see's some regular traffic. You should go in the late Summer-Fall/Winter if you are wanting to get the maximum out of the main wall. When the stream is low tons of variations. If the stream is running, then hit the boulders uphill or further up canyon. Beautiful place with some really quality problems! The problems up on the hill don't see nearly as much traffic, but there are some quality problems if you look.
Jan 31, 2010
[Hide Comment] hey santa fe crankers, would anyone mind posting descriptions on some more of the climbs here? I really enjoy the sandstone bouldering and I'd like to know where some of the other classics in the canyon are.
I know of the main wall and energy club, but all these are new to me: Hello Panda v7, Geisha v9, Mrs Doubtfire v10, Hellory v9, Unga Bunga v5
[Hide Comment] There are many problems scattered around the hills above the well known overhanging area. I think there are more descriptions available at rockclimbing.com. There are some high quality problems, however it looks like someone has gone out there with a chisel and manufactured some holds. Not cool!
Nov 4, 2013
[Hide Comment] I'd like a clarification on the name of the area. On the topo map the canyon where the trail and boulders are located is actually named Grasshopper Canyon with Deer Creek running through it. Apache Canyon is the next major drainage west. Is this area called Apache Canyon Boulders because of the green sign in the parking area?
Nov 14, 2014
[Hide Comment] So I stopped here on a road trip I took to Albuquerque recently. Great place, park right on I-25 w/zero sidetracking in the car, 5 min from the road with no crowds and beautiful setting. True, if they sat next to Kraft Boulders or the Buttermilks, I probably wouldn't even notice them. Ol' Wa3lt must be an uber badass, the only two kinds of holds I eliminated were the ones I couldn't physically reach and the ones that were too far from the ground for my comfort level of the day.
While enjoying the climbing and exploring, I came across a couple manufactured/modified holds on the dirty crumbly north side of the big rock located opposite the stream of the Main Overhang. Hilariously, they appeared to have been made with a blunt object like a ball peen hammer or a rock and were still covered with the powdered remains.
I disapprove of this action and encourage folks to better themselves instead of degrading beautiful environs. Likely you've already named your "route," but in case the effort of naming it is as hard as resisting the urge to respect the rock, I'll chip out a few suggestions for you: Weak, Squandered Opportunity, Poor Judgment, No One Will Ever Climb This at 5.14 Now, Lost Dignity.
May 23, 2015
[Hide Comment] Beautiful Canyon. There is sandstone, limestone and granite, if you walk far enough up canyon. I saw chipped and drilled pockets on several of the sandstone boulders in the lower canyon though. Climbers that do this should be reported to the authorities.
May 19, 2016
[Hide Comment] Visited Apache Canyon yesterday (1/28/17) and the main wall was unclimbabel due to a high stream flow. Explored around and found a problem I think is "The Geisha" (see Jeff Drumm's vid- vimeo.com/3913616).
The start holds for this problem visible in the video are no longer there (a victim of chipping/breakage??), but the problem still goes from lower start holds (bad slimper for the left and bad right hand pinch), but deserves an upgrade to V10. This problem is worth the hike by itself!
Jan 29, 2017
[Hide Comment] Went to Apache for the first time today after wondering about it for awhile now. The main overhang area has been almost fully covered in mud by local kids/families playing in the river. Sent Hello Panda which is still a high quality line.
Mar 20, 2019
[Hide Comment] Decent local area with fun, steep climbs. Would be nice if someone in-the-know would post the climbs that are located on the main overhang.
Oct 13, 2019
[Hide Comment] A beautiful and uncrowded area with something for everyone. I've added plenty of updated information and a reference photo for The Geisha (V9/10) on the problem's page.
Jan 2, 2021
Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Must do's Energy Club v5, Hello Panda v7, Geisha v9, Mrs Doubtfire v10, Hellory v9, Unga Bunga v5.
This place was developed about 10 years ago so may be dirty again by 2010 and show little signs of traffic anymore. Jan 10, 2010
I know of the main wall and energy club, but all these are new to me:
Hello Panda v7, Geisha v9, Mrs Doubtfire v10, Hellory v9, Unga Bunga v5
thanks Oct 30, 2011
Gunnison, Colorado
Old Pueblo
While enjoying the climbing and exploring, I came across a couple manufactured/modified holds on the dirty crumbly north side of the big rock located opposite the stream of the Main Overhang. Hilariously, they appeared to have been made with a blunt object like a ball peen hammer or a rock and were still covered with the powdered remains.
I disapprove of this action and encourage folks to better themselves instead of degrading beautiful environs. Likely you've already named your "route," but in case the effort of naming it is as hard as resisting the urge to respect the rock, I'll chip out a few suggestions for you: Weak, Squandered Opportunity, Poor Judgment, No One Will Ever Climb This at 5.14 Now, Lost Dignity. May 23, 2015
Bend
Albuquerque
The start holds for this problem visible in the video are no longer there (a victim of chipping/breakage??), but the problem still goes from lower start holds (bad slimper for the left and bad right hand pinch), but deserves an upgrade to V10. This problem is worth the hike by itself! Jan 29, 2017
Athens, Ga
NM
Albuquerque