Located in the Black Hills of South Dakota is a climbing area like no other, The Needles. From Sylvan Lake a road called the Needles Highway winds through spectacular and spell binding towers and spires. From this road climbers can access a playground of unparalleled face climbing on ever narrowing spires by way of quartz crystals ranging from tiny to hand sized.
The area is steeped in a rich history dating back to Fritz Wiessner's accent of the Totem Pole in 1936. The area was then home to the prolific Herb and Jan Conn, two climbers way ahead of their time, who put up over 200 first ascents from their first visit in 1947 and eventual move to the area in 1949. In the 1960's climbers such as RoyalRobins, John Gill and Henry Barber put up routes that still wow climbers today with their high "pucker factor".
Locals such as Paul Muehl John Page, And Bob Archbold made their contributions to the Needle's catalog of bold climbs during the70's and into the 80's with the likes of Pete Delonney. The Needles has long been know for its purist ethics, which has made for some wild climbs and a Needles' staple, the infamous simul-rap. As Jan Conn said, "You can climb anything in the Needles, if you have the guts."
Custer SP is a world class destination not only for the climbing but also the absolute beauty of the place. Once there, the friendly people of Custer, the interesting scenery, and the relaxed park staff will make it hard to leave. While buying my $15 pass (7 days), I told a ranger why I was there. While we prepared to pull away he smiled and said, "You guys can go anywhere you want!" Yeah, if we have the guts.
Duluth, MN
Madison WI
Arvada, CO
Black Hills, SD
Western North America
I'm looking for a little beta on camping, hopefully of the free variety. What's the scene? Is there any free/very cheap camping within reasonable distance of the state park?
I'm looking at coming here on an extended roadtrip, probably sometime in August. Would it be too hot then? How long could I stay here and be entertained (mostly looking at leading 11-12ish, preferably trad)?
Thanks in advance for the great beta,
-Scott Apr 28, 2009
Black Hills, SD
Wrinkled Rock Trailhead which is located at the northwest corner of Mt. Rushmore N.M. is a free designated climbers bivouac zone. You may camp in a tent or van but RVs are not allowed. There is a pit toilet but no water source.
As for pay camp grounds there are multiple options in Custer State Park. Horsetheif Resort and Ft. Welikit are the closest commercial campgrounds to CSP/Needles.
The weather in August can be hot but it is possible to chase the shade or start early to beat the heat. The climbing in the Harney Range lends itself well to face climbing but there are a number of great trad routes. There are over 2000 routes in the Harney Range offering much diversity and multiple different areas. If you need more beta please feel free to contact me at brentk@rap.midco.net
Cheerio,
Brent Apr 28, 2009
Rapid City
Check out ecoprimalquest.com/wp-prima…. You may want to schedule your trip around this event, or sign up to volunteer.
Toni May 3, 2009
i have some questions hopefully someone could help with:
Our family is coming down to the area in July 2010 from Canada. I have the new Needles guidebook(which is very funny and unique) but it lacks some routes around Sylvan lake.
Where do I find info on that Conn 5.3 route? or where some of the sport climbs are exactly located, i don't wanna take a wandering mission with kids.
Also where is the bouldering near Sylvan Lake?
What is the best campground in this general area?
I have the Rushmore guide from 1996, i must say it is sensory overload and I can see it being interesting to follow. Sorry just my opinion.
thanks,
Greg Feb 22, 2010
Spearfish, SD
Maine
Mill Creek, WA
Thanks Jul 18, 2013
Rapid City SD( raised) and…
Granite Sports in Hill City is the best climbing store in the area. Their workers are very knowledgable and some are even guides. If you have never climbed in the Cathedral Spires I would get some information. This area is complex and has a alpine feel with the hike in. It's very easy to get lost and turned around. Pick a few routes/ formations you want to do VS one specific route. If you don't find your route and don't have back up routes easy to waste away the day attempting to find routes. My two cents.
-Mike Jul 18, 2013
Mill Creek, WA
Hill City, SD
- Dislocated Peak - somewhere in the Outlets
- Toodaloo - near Budweiser spire
- 3 Stooges - no info available
- Milkyway Area - maybe near Frontier View?
- Groovey Rock and Mohawk Ridge - maybe the last FA's the Conns ever did back in 1986 with Paul Muehl
- Lean and Mean - north of trail #3
If you know anything about these climbs or areas, I would appreciate it if you could send it to me. Thanks for your help everyone! Jan 17, 2014
Black Hills, SD
McCall, ID
Rapid City SD( raised) and…
Rapid City SD( raised) and…
The Milky way area is up by Sylvan Lake off Trail number 9. May 26, 2015
Rapid City SD( raised) and…
Tucson
Spearfish, SD
Boulder, CO
iPhone and Android: sloperclimbing.com Aug 31, 2021
Rapid City, SD