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Custer State Park

S Dakota

Description

Located in the Black Hills of South Dakota is a climbing area like no other, The Needles. From Sylvan Lake a road called the Needles Highway winds through spectacular and spell binding towers and spires. From this road climbers can access a playground of unparalleled face climbing on ever narrowing spires by way of quartz crystals ranging from tiny to hand sized.

 The area is steeped in a rich history dating back to Fritz Wiessner's accent of the Totem Pole in 1936. The area was then home to the prolific Herb and Jan Conn, two climbers way ahead of their time, who put up over 200 first ascents from their first visit in 1947 and eventual move to the area in 1949. In the 1960's climbers such as RoyalRobins, John Gill and Henry Barber put up routes that still wow climbers today with their high "pucker factor".

Locals such as Paul Muehl John Page, And Bob Archbold made their contributions to the Needle's catalog of bold climbs during the70's and into the 80's with the likes of Pete Delonney. The Needles has long been know for its purist ethics, which has made for some wild climbs and a Needles' staple, the infamous simul-rap. As Jan Conn said, "You can climb anything in the Needles, if you have the guts."

Custer SP is a world class destination not only for the climbing but also the absolute beauty of the place. Once there, the friendly people of Custer, the interesting scenery, and the relaxed park staff will make it hard to leave. While buying my $15 pass (7 days), I told a ranger why I was there. While we prepared to pull away he smiled and said, "You guys can go anywhere you want!" Yeah, if we have the guts.

Getting There

Once in Custer take Hwy 89/385 east out of town and then left on to Hwy 89 north to the Sylvan Lake entrance to Custer SP. From here is where the Needles Hwy starts and heads south.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

me on (or in) the needles eye<br>
photo credit: chen qun
[Hide Photo] me on (or in) the needles eye photo credit: chen qun
Paul Muehl and his ever-present cigarette, Custer State Park<br>
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Photo by Beth Wald
[Hide Photo] Paul Muehl and his ever-present cigarette, Custer State Park Photo by Beth Wald
Picket Fence, Harney, Old Baldy, and Rushmore off in the distance from Station 13.
[Hide Photo] Picket Fence, Harney, Old Baldy, and Rushmore off in the distance from Station 13.
Sylvan Lake
[Hide Photo] Sylvan Lake
Pete de Lannoy on the FA of Limited Immunity (5.12a), The Needles<br>
<br>
Photo by Beth Wald
[Hide Photo] Pete de Lannoy on the FA of Limited Immunity (5.12a), The Needles Photo by Beth Wald
Classic Needle
[Hide Photo] Classic Needle
1957 Conn guide to the needles.  Amazing piece of history.
[Hide Photo] 1957 Conn guide to the needles. Amazing piece of history.
From the top of Spire Four.
[Hide Photo] From the top of Spire Four.
Ahhh international chimney
[Hide Photo] Ahhh international chimney
From the Spires after a spring storm
[Hide Photo] From the Spires after a spring storm
Ten Pins from atop Rubaiyat.
[Hide Photo] Ten Pins from atop Rubaiyat.
The Needles Eye
[Hide Photo] The Needles Eye

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN
[Hide Comment] I'm going to be taking a trip to Custer State Park in the summer. I'm looking for a guide book... any suggestions on which one to get and where to get it? I'm looking for a place with some easy routes because I'm going with the family... Which area has the best "easy" routes? Thanks. Feb 6, 2008
chris tregge
Madison WI
[Hide Comment] How much money you got? Paul Piana's Touch the Sky, although old, has excellent history and a lot of the classics. It's out of print. Make sure if you buy it that the price includes the maps. Check Amazon or bookfinder.com. Every once in a while you find one for $5-$10 if the seller is unaware. Otherwise... There is a new one by Zach Orenczak extremeangles.com/ but I have no idea how good or accurate it is. Any locals out there? Feb 9, 2008
John Klooster
Arvada, CO
[Hide Comment] The new book is not that great. It has quite a bit of misinformation and leaves out a huge number of great routes. The book does not include the outlets or other awesome areas near Sylvan Lake. Another guide book that written by non-locals and supporting a new area above the Needles Eye that was put in against the ethics of the area. Sorry for my rant. The old Dingus McGee and The Last Pioneer Women blue book is a pretty good although small guide, you can probably find it at most local shops. Feb 9, 2008
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
[Hide Comment] At this point the content of this website is as helpful as any guidebook currently in print. Feb 9, 2008
Scott Bennett
Western North America
[Hide Comment] Hey guys-
I'm looking for a little beta on camping, hopefully of the free variety. What's the scene? Is there any free/very cheap camping within reasonable distance of the state park?
I'm looking at coming here on an extended roadtrip, probably sometime in August. Would it be too hot then? How long could I stay here and be entertained (mostly looking at leading 11-12ish, preferably trad)?
Thanks in advance for the great beta,
-Scott Apr 28, 2009
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
[Hide Comment] Scott,

Wrinkled Rock Trailhead which is located at the northwest corner of Mt. Rushmore N.M. is a free designated climbers bivouac zone. You may camp in a tent or van but RVs are not allowed. There is a pit toilet but no water source.

As for pay camp grounds there are multiple options in Custer State Park. Horsetheif Resort and Ft. Welikit are the closest commercial campgrounds to CSP/Needles.

The weather in August can be hot but it is possible to chase the shade or start early to beat the heat. The climbing in the Harney Range lends itself well to face climbing but there are a number of great trad routes. There are over 2000 routes in the Harney Range offering much diversity and multiple different areas. If you need more beta please feel free to contact me at brentk@rap.midco.net

Cheerio,
Brent Apr 28, 2009
DakotaToni
Rapid City
[Hide Comment] Scott,

Check out ecoprimalquest.com/wp-prima…. You may want to schedule your trip around this event, or sign up to volunteer.

Toni May 3, 2009
[Hide Comment] Hi,
i have some questions hopefully someone could help with:
Our family is coming down to the area in July 2010 from Canada. I have the new Needles guidebook(which is very funny and unique) but it lacks some routes around Sylvan lake.
Where do I find info on that Conn 5.3 route? or where some of the sport climbs are exactly located, i don't wanna take a wandering mission with kids.
Also where is the bouldering near Sylvan Lake?
What is the best campground in this general area?
I have the Rushmore guide from 1996, i must say it is sensory overload and I can see it being interesting to follow. Sorry just my opinion.
thanks,
Greg Feb 22, 2010
Jonathan Marek
Spearfish, SD
[Hide Comment] Contrary to popular opinion, I love the new book. All the routes I have personally done from the book were very accurately described (in some cases i felt possibly too much so.) Spire two is a classic 5.3 Conn route but the approach may be a bit much for kids. If you want a great guide to moderate Conn route including those at sylvan, you should get Lindsey Steven's The Adventure Climbs of Herb and Jan Conn. There are lots of camping options. As far as bouldering goes the best info is probably on the site somewhere. Feb 26, 2010
Erik Rieger
Maine
[Hide Comment] I remember being super hesitant to travel all the way to the Needles my first time (What—South Dakota? Rockclimbing?). However, after climbing close to 20-or-so odd towers in a couple days, camping at Poverty Gulch (the free Camp 4 of the Needles), and being touted around by a young local to the best climbs, it still stands out as one of the most awesome and memorable climbing venues I've ever been to. There are so many standout climbs here. Jun 27, 2013
Adam J. Clark
Mill Creek, WA
[Hide Comment] Making a trip out here in a month, specifically the cathedral spires area, can anyone recommend a guidebook or climbing stores nearby.
Thanks Jul 18, 2013
Mikel Madsen
Rapid City SD( raised) and…
[Hide Comment] Adam,
Granite Sports in Hill City is the best climbing store in the area. Their workers are very knowledgable and some are even guides. If you have never climbed in the Cathedral Spires I would get some information. This area is complex and has a alpine feel with the hike in. It's very easy to get lost and turned around. Pick a few routes/ formations you want to do VS one specific route. If you don't find your route and don't have back up routes easy to waste away the day attempting to find routes. My two cents.
-Mike Jul 18, 2013
Adam J. Clark
Mill Creek, WA
[Hide Comment] Thank you very much for the information and advice, do you have recommendations for reasonable camping nearby? Aug 5, 2013
Jim Slichter
Hill City, SD
[Hide Comment] I am in the process of trying to locate some of the climbs that were done "back in the day" like in the 70's and 80's. Here are the missing climbs and any information I could find on them.
- Dislocated Peak - somewhere in the Outlets
- Toodaloo - near Budweiser spire
- 3 Stooges - no info available
- Milkyway Area - maybe near Frontier View?
- Groovey Rock and Mohawk Ridge - maybe the last FA's the Conns ever did back in 1986 with Paul Muehl
- Lean and Mean - north of trail #3

If you know anything about these climbs or areas, I would appreciate it if you could send it to me. Thanks for your help everyone! Jan 17, 2014
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
[Hide Comment] Jim, I know how to get to "Lean and Mean" and the "Three Stooges". Give me a call at 605-430-6690 and we can talk. I do have a copy of Herb's map for the "Crested Crest Ridge" with both of these formations plus many others with plums ripe for the plucking. Jan 18, 2014
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
[Hide Comment] Thinking of heading down next year, mid-April to mid-May. Is the snow usually gone by that time? Apr 25, 2014
Mikel Madsen
Rapid City SD( raised) and…
[Hide Comment] Annie the granite out here dries very fast. Its common for summer rain storms to move in for a brief moment and if you give it a couple of hours your back climbing. Looks like good weather ahead good luck! May 26, 2015
Mikel Madsen
Rapid City SD( raised) and…
[Hide Comment] Jim,
The Milky way area is up by Sylvan Lake off Trail number 9. May 26, 2015
Mikel Madsen
Rapid City SD( raised) and…
[Hide Comment] patience.... I have two copies and both were $40.oo on amazon great condition with maps ;) Aug 27, 2016
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
[Hide Comment] Is everyone rap bolting now? The one true local who was raised in Hill City doesn't care how they go up. Just wondering if there is still a group of route police or if I can put routes up the way I want? Aggressive Tendoncies was put up by me on lead, ground up drilling on lead with a hook for pro now and then. When accused of hanging on that hook The accuser almost got a fist sandwich for lunch. Did the "rules" make it a better route? I don't think so, just more run out. Just curious if I will need to work on my left hook if I come up his summer? May 16, 2017
Joel McKillop
Spearfish, SD
[Hide Comment] Hooks and hand drills only. No rap bolting. May 16, 2017
Henry Lester
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Regarding guidebooks for the area, the pamphlet style guidebook for the Needles is not worth buying. Even in a spot like the Ten Pins, not all of the "Pins" are described, no stars, and the quality of information is weak. Unfortunately, around peak season, there are helicopters flying a couple of times an hour (tourist rides). Aug 29, 2021
[Hide Comment] The Sloper Climbing App has the full Burr/Busse guidebook (currently out of print) available with all route descriptions and topos.
iPhone and Android: sloperclimbing.com Aug 31, 2021
[Hide Comment] For anyone who doesn't have the guide book and is just using Mountain Project, there is no real sport climbing in the state park. A guide for the park let me know that there is no sport and the routes that are bolted are more often than not mixed climbs where trad gear is still needed. Jun 16, 2022
Adam Pequette
Rapid City, SD
[Hide Comment] Hmmmmm....that's not ture. There are lots of sport routes in the park and more specifically at Sylvan Lake. Routes from 5.4 to 5.11 can be found that are nothing but bolts. Jun 17, 2022
[Hide Comment] Anyone available to climb July 7? My 7 yo son and I will be in the area late on July 6 through early July 8. Looking for single pitch trad or sport. Jun 28, 2022