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Horse Gulch Open Space

Colorado > Durango

Description

Two small cliffs on either side of the entrance of Horse Gulch have friable rock, which once cleaned, yield enjoyable and dynamic climbing. The 40 foot cliff on the right has two leads with two more further up-creek. While there's a lot of fun TRs on the left cliff and high-ball boulder problems up blasted rock further down, the testpiece is an aid line from the graffiti up & out roofs to a ledge & dihedral to top out.

Getting There

There is a 10 minute approach from the parking lot to the climbs for either the left or right side of the gulch.

For the right side: go right across the parking lot to the trail up the hill. Where it levels out, go left and up to a rock shelf to gain the larger trail. Follow this to the first utility pole, then go left through the trees and drop down to the base of the cliff.

For the left side: follow left ridgeline trail to shelves of rock, and traverse hillside to base of climbs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

These are nice, short leads.
[Hide Photo] These are nice, short leads.
Fun. Good Bouldering, mentioned on opening page
[Hide Photo] Fun. Good Bouldering, mentioned on opening page
Lots of potential....
[Hide Photo] Lots of potential....
Hmmm....
[Hide Photo] Hmmm....
Quarried stone, wild bouldering/waiting for a free solo, bolted route
[Hide Photo] Quarried stone, wild bouldering/waiting for a free solo, bolted route
The left side of Horse Arete. The right side is mostly out of sight. Nice holds and clean rock, moves are real good. Down climb or skirt your way left on ledge / shelf down to trail.
[Hide Photo] The left side of Horse Arete. The right side is mostly out of sight. Nice holds and clean rock, moves are real good. Down climb or skirt your way left on ledge / shelf down to trail.
Fun TRs dotted....
[Hide Photo] Fun TRs dotted....
Oh yeah.
[Hide Photo] Oh yeah.
Nice Diagonal.
[Hide Photo] Nice Diagonal.
Nice traverse here, start left out of view.
[Hide Photo] Nice traverse here, start left out of view.
Featured.
[Hide Photo] Featured.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] A hundred feet or so up the trail, at the sharp left turn, there is a roof-crack boulder problem on the left. It may be complete junk, as I have never tried it (muddy/shale landing), but it looked kinda fun.... Dec 11, 2007
chosspector
San Juans, CO
[Hide Comment] Not recommended unless you enjoy short ledgy choss. Much better for mountain biking or hobo camping. Jun 7, 2010
Matthias Holladay
On the Road...Looking for a…
[Hide Comment] Short with choss, but someone else please lead Sabine's Magical Mystery Tour and tell me this is a "ledgy" route. Jun 30, 2010
Jaaron Mankins
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] I totally agree with the chosspector here, Horse Gulch used to be renowned for keggers and 4-wheelin' back in the early '90s-before the gates went up. Sep 12, 2010
Matthias Holladay
On the Road...Looking for a…
[Hide Comment] O.K.-- It's true, I do have a thing for choss, short or long, ledgy or overhung, it doesn't matter where, I'll try it.... As far as what this place is best for -- qué será, será! Sep 15, 2010
Jaaron Mankins
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] I respect a man with a healthy choss affinity. Sep 21, 2010
smassey
CO
[Hide Comment] Matthias, I'd rather be climbing the choss you put up than doing the umpteenth lap on socially acceptable choss at The Golf Wall. Funny how choss is a matter of perspective. The guidebook to Rifle starts out with saying "Rifle is truly a pile", or something to that effect. To all the haters: If you don't like choss, leave the San Juans - you're out of your element; go sport climbing somewhere. If you don't mind a little adventure, enjoy it for what it is.

BTW, thanks for posting all the pix of you and Joel getting after it. It's a slice of Dgo history.

If someone posts pix of anyone riding down the horse gulch cliffs, I will be impressed.... Dec 10, 2010