Pirate Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Pirate Wall
|Line Of Addiction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Shared By:||chad umbel on Oct 16, 2007|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
DescriptionPirate Wall is located deep in the South/East corner of the South Fork of Oak Creek Canyon. I guess you could really say it's like the West Face of Mt. Wilson or the Cactus Flower Tower. It looks similar to Mescalito but not as wide. It hosts a lot of nice looking cracks as well as face climbs. Yeah. They're all unclimbed. Except for Line Of Addiction.
The rock is good, the crowds are non-existent, and the approach is big. But so are the walls back here so it's well worth the hike. The summit is absolutely stunning and drops off about eight hundred feet from all sides. Be ready for an all day affair no matter what you climb back here cuz it takes at least 2 hours to approach.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
Getting ThereHike past Johnny Vegas and when you come to where the canyon forks to go to Eagle Wall, go left (South/West). Take this through lots of boulder hoppin in the wash until the wash forks again. Go left again (South). This will eventually spit you out at a big dry water fall with a huge slab below it comparable to the Rainbow Wall's.
Hand over hand the black and orange home depot rope and go South for a rope length until it looks like you should start goin up some slabs on your left (East). You will follow a cairned trail up and towards a sort of ridge and eventually start going South again towards the Pirate Wall. You should see a huge, sheer, black streaked wall on your right. This is the Coffin Wall. Keep on thrashin and scramblin till you are sort of lined up with the base of the Pirate Wall. It is the obvious looking spire in the back left side of the canyon.
You will encounter some 5th class, some scrub oak, and a whole lot of cactus back here so don't expect a nice cush trail that is well traveled. Happy climbing!
Classic Climbing Routes at Pirate Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
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