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Chimney Rock - East Face Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Chimney Rock - East Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blind Ambition T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Camouflage T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
	Flue, Right, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Flue, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Raven's Reach T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tiptoe Past the Ranger TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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GPS:	34.01664, -116.16122 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This is the "backside" and less popular side of Chimney Rock; it gets morning sun and afternoon shade and has a handful of routes from 5.8 to 5.12c despite it's large size. Recommended routes on this side include The Flue (5.8) a classic face to slanting hand crack, Blind Ambition (5.11a) a technical and delicate face that requires some additional gear and Camouflage (5.12c) a highly technical face that sees little action despite it's easily accessible location.

Safety Warning: The descent route down the "chimney" that splits the formation is filled with huge blocks and debris from a massive rockfall in the summer of 1994 when the route Loose Lips (5.11a) collapsed. While still possible to downclimb the chimney it's best avoid this route to avoid any multi-ton blocks shifting as you weight them.

Getting There

Approach from points within the Campground or park in the day use parking lot beneath Intersection Rock and walk east to the visible formation and then circle around the left side of the formation to reach the east face.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chimney Rock - East Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 229 ● The Flue Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 5 ● Tiptoe Past the Ranger TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R 29 ● The Flue, Right Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 78 ● Blind Ambition Trad