GPS: 34.01664, -116.16122
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Shared By: C Miller on Oct 16, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

Description

This is the "backside" and less popular side of Chimney Rock; it gets morning sun and afternoon shade and has a handful of routes from 5.8 to 5.12c despite it's large size. Recommended routes on this side include The Flue (5.8) a classic face to slanting hand crack, Blind Ambition (5.11a) a technical and delicate face that requires some additional gear and Camouflage (5.12c) a highly technical face that sees little action despite it's easily accessible location.

Safety Warning: The descent route down the "chimney" that splits the formation is filled with huge blocks and debris from a massive rockfall in the summer of 1994 when the route Loose Lips (5.11a) collapsed. While still possible to downclimb the chimney it's best avoid this route to avoid any multi-ton blocks shifting as you weight them.

Getting There

Approach from points within the Campground or park in the day use parking lot beneath Intersection Rock and walk east to the visible formation and then circle around the left side of the formation to reach the east face.

6 Total Climbs

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Location: Chimney Rock - East Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Chimney Rock - East Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 207
The Flue
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Tiptoe Past the Ranger
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 28
The Flue, Right
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 69
Blind Ambition
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Flue
 207
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Tiptoe Past the Ranger
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
The Flue, Right
 28
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad
Blind Ambition
 69
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Chimney Rock - East Face »

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