The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/… Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Joshua Tree, CA
Feck 5.10-
Big Ass Ellie May 5.9
These 2 climbs are located on a small boulder in front of the climb Lukachukai. The area is the cliffs and boulders on the right just before you get to Indian Head. Both have one bolt at the start. Feck is the right climb. Both climbs face East.
May a Dick Grow Out of Your Forehead 5.9*
4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Indian Head
Henry Moore 5.8
1 or 2 bolts. Anchor is sling on horn Indian Head Area Located between Open Winfrey and May a Dick Grow Our Of Your Forehead.
Lukachukai 5.7 *
3 or 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor Indian Head Area May 19, 2010
Joshua Tree, CA
Tart And Tiny 5.7 *
This is a 3 bolt climb on the rock the is just east of Open Winfrey. The rock is reached by hiking through the tunnel, and as you exit the tunnel, it's on your right. It has this bolted face on it's right side, a crack which doesn't reach the ground, but bi-sects the formation (Chubs), and an excellent ( un-named) TR on it's left side. There are 2 bolts on the top .
Chubs. 5.7*
Climb up to the 2nd bolt of Tart and Tiny, and traverse left into the obvious crack system. Rap from the Tart and Tiny anchors.
Un-named 5.10+**
This climb goes up the left side of the face on small holds. I believe it has it's own anchor on top. May 19, 2010