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Routes in Bouldering Cave

Baseball Problem, The V8 7B
Blockade S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Football Problem V4+ 6B+
Jew Claw, The V9+ 7C
Low low start (aka Desperation) V6 7A
Murray Pinch V10-11 8A
Pegboard V6 7A
Reachy sidepulls? V7-8 7B
V8 V8- 7B

Description

Generally shady. This "rock" is well traveled but it's weepy limestone and forms a cave that is quite subject to freeze-thaw that results in sometimes annual changes in routes. Nevertheless, it's still good climbing.

The main cave hosts a good selection of problems in the V4 to V9 range with many eliminates, variations and link-ups. There is also the Murry Pinch V11 is a problem that involves a terrible pinch at the lip then tinny crimps and is between the Football Problem and the Reachy Sidepull problem.

To the left of the roof are several easier problem V2 to about V4 and as you continue left there are more problems but the rock has not recived as much "LOVE" and is thus a bit less reliable.

If you can get over the huge amount of epoxy that has been poured into this area (very little would be climbable here without it) it provides a good change of pace from the typical slabby, sharp granite to be had near town. As well as a shady venue that is at least bearable durring the summer, though if you want to do stuff that is hard for you, better to wait till temps are in the 60's or lower as the rock is pretty polished.

Getting There

From the parking area, hike south and down into the creek bed, cross the moat, and find some entertaining bouldering.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bouldering Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Robin
Albuquerque, NM
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
I agree with Leeab's comments for sure. It's not the greatest crag but it's right there outside of town and often cooler than the lower Sandias. Combined with leading the two mellow 5.10's it makes for a quick outdoor climbing fix. Jun 2, 2009

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