Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Eagle Rock

N Carolina > 1. Southern Mountains…
Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Parking lot closed DetailsDrop down

Description

"As of May 4th, 2018,  climbing will be permitted at the Eagle Rock Crags.  This new climbing and hiking access was made possible by the partnership between Chimney Rock State Park, Conserving Carolina, and the Carolina Climbers Coalition. The opening of the Eagle Rock Crags represents the first expanded rock climbing access within Chimney Rock State Park. The trail leading to the base of many climbs and boulders was funded by the Carolina Climbers Coalition, Conserving Carolina, REI Conservation Grant, and the American Alpine Club Cornerstone Grant. .  Be respectful of private property and adjacent landowners, parking violations are subject to a fine or towing. While in the area, please keep quiet, as private property borders the park boundaries and we want to keep our neighbors happy. You can print a cliff map from the Carolina Climbers Coalition here: carolinaclimbers.org/sites/… .  "When facing the North Face of The Bald from below, Eagle Rock is the crag furthest to the right, high on the ridge and facing roughly east. The summit of Eagle boasts arguably the best view in the state park which on a clear day reveals Shortoff, Table Rock, Grandfather Mt and Mt Mitchell, the highest peak in the eastern US.  The south side of Eagle is broken into two tiers.  The easily accessible upper wall has several obvious lines. The lower tier is approached via the new trail on the north side.  DO NOT walk up or down the gully!  The lower tier has taller routes, many dating back to the 80's.Most of the info on these older lines comes from an underground guide entitled Eagle Rock Climbs, A Guide To New Routes on Bald Mountain by James Bowles, Tom Willis and Steve Donnini.  There are three cliffs to the right as you look back at the Bald from the overlook. The first and biggest has a few old routes and has been called the Rez Wall. The next cliff which I call Possum Rock, is not very good but has a few routes. The third, rather scruffy looking crag is called Black Bear Buttress and it is incredible.

Getting There

From highway 64 in Bat Cave, turn north onto route 9.  Go a couple miles and turn right onto Shumont Road.  Take it several miles to a cul de sac.  Turn left into State Park parking lot.  Hike past the gate.  At top of hill go left for Eagle Rock and right for Black Bear.

Though climbing is still allowed, the parking lot is currently closed until further notice. You can read more about access issues at the Carolina Climbers Coalition website.

The only option at the moment is to park at Buffalo Creek Park and do a 10 mile hike in via Weed Patch Mtn Trail.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tim on the FA
[Hide Photo] Tim on the FA
The Upper Tier
[Hide Photo] The Upper Tier
Start of The Succubus
[Hide Photo] Start of The Succubus
View from the summit of Eagle Rock on a very clear day.  Mitchell, Grandfather, Hawksbill, Table Rock and Shortoff can all be picked out on the horizon.
[Hide Photo] View from the summit of Eagle Rock on a very clear day. Mitchell, Grandfather, Hawksbill, Table Rock and Shortoff can all be picked out on the horizon.
A great photo of a memorable day. <br>
<br>
Photo taken by Mr. Nathan Brown
[Hide Photo] A great photo of a memorable day. Photo taken by Mr. Nathan Brown
The Dark Side
[Hide Photo] The Dark Side
Photo compliments of Dennis M.
[Hide Photo] Photo compliments of Dennis M.
The old guidebook
[Hide Photo] The old guidebook
The Rez Wall as seen from the Upper Tier. Named in honor of the Resurrected One. There's at least one route up this big cliff.
[Hide Photo] The Rez Wall as seen from the Upper Tier. Named in honor of the Resurrected One. There's at least one route up this big cliff.
The trail to Eagle Rock is just left of this cool stack.
[Hide Photo] The trail to Eagle Rock is just left of this cool stack.
Graffitti removal by Carolina Climbers Coalition
[Hide Photo] Graffitti removal by Carolina Climbers Coalition
Shannon on Struggle Bus
[Hide Photo] Shannon on Struggle Bus

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] A video, beta, climber cliff map, and more info on the opening of this great spot here: grounduppublishing.com/?p=1195 May 20, 2018
Jonathan Gerst
Tryon, NC
[Hide Comment] Thanks to everyone that made this place possible. What a gem! Nov 2, 2018
Ben Wilson
Boone NC
[Hide Comment] This area no longer requires a reservation in advance to get the gate code. This is now first come first serve with permits available in the parking lot Oct 8, 2022