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Routes in Middle Tower

Easy Crack TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Finger Slit TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pillar hold TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed sport climb S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Description

Solid rock and decent climbs, but the approach makes this the least climbed area in the park.

To reach the anchors: lead climb the easy ledges on the northwest corner of the tower (lake side) which is nicely protected by four bolts. It's not labelled on the map but the bolts are easily spotted to the left of the ledges. It's much safer than the old way of reaching the anchors that involved crossing the sketchy tree branch.


On the topo at the park visitors center, these climbs are under the "Side Canyons" section.

Getting There

Follow the trail from the parking lot down the stairs. Take a left at the fork. You'll pass a big tower on your right with a cave through it and the middle tower will be next on your right after passing a narrow canyon.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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I agree the tree route across always scared me.
I use the lakeside approach which is in the gully getween the two towers(?) I can downclimb this in the rain. Apr 3, 2010
Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
I prefer to access this tower via the 5.5 climb on the Lake end of the canyon between the two towers. It's only about 20 feet before you're on a ledge with an easy scramble. And no depending on a tree! Sep 11, 2009

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