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Right Arrow

New Mexico > Jemez Area > Gilman Tunnels > Broken Arrows
Warning Access Issue: December 1 & 2, 2025 - Gilman Tunnels Temporary Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

The Right Arrow is home to the best rock at Gilman, the best routes and Gilman, and the longest singlepitch routes at Gilman. If you have time for only one crag, this is the one to visit. The Crag offers a nice flat cliff base area, somewhat separated from the tourists, and is a great place to spend the day. All of the routes on this wall have a similar character, with very technical and thin starts, to some sort of roof, finishing up long, relatively moderate slabs.

Routes here appear a bit intimidating due to the blank nature of the lower third of the cliff. Most of the route cruxes are in the first several bolts, so don't be put off if you have trouble getting started. Stick clip strongly recommended for this cliff.

Getting There

Ther Right Arrow is the towering steep slab immediately across the river from the pullout.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Ecksteinator
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
Under Siege
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Hostile Takeover Variation
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Old Punks on Crack
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Hostile Takeover
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Happy Feet
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 1
Lancelot
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ecksteinator
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Under Siege
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Hostile Takeover Variation
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Old Punks on Crack
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hostile Takeover
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Happy Feet
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Lancelot
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Though it looks sunny it was about to rain
[Hide Photo] Though it looks sunny it was about to rain
The Right Arrow.  The obvious dihedral and splitter crack just left of center is "Old Punks On Crack".
[Hide Photo] The Right Arrow. The obvious dihedral and splitter crack just left of center is "Old Punks On Crack".