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Routes in Ouray Rotary Park-Rink Wall

Car Jacking S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Circular Semantics (aka Justin's Route) S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dangling Participle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dipthing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dipthong S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hazy Shade of Winter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Highway 550 Revisited S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Industrial Measures S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jay's Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lap Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Handed Blunt S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pleasing the Masses S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Winged Red Neck S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
San Juan Snake S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seduction of Gravity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sesame Street S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sesame Street Extension S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tepid Hummus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thong Wedgie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

Family-style climbing at its finest! Roll on up to the City of Ouray's Rotary Park in your Chrysler woodie station wagon, flower-covered '67 VW Bus, or gas-guzzling-GMC-Yukon-with-a-soccer-mom-sticker-on-the-back SUV, and have a groovy time with all the kinfolk. Safe, easily accessed one-pitch climbs will have even Granny sending hard! Far enough off the road so the family dog won't get run over in traffic, but steps away from the public facilities should just such a need arise. So convenient that Uncle Fred can help belay from the backseat of the family car as he nurses his methadone hangover. Don't forget the picnic basket for those after-climbing BBQs (Even Little Johnny loves a Johnsonville Brat.)

  • Thanks to the City Parks Maintenance Crew for the groovy landscaping

Getting There

From the heart of Ouray, go north on US Hwy 550 toward Ridgway 1 mile. Look for the hockey rink on the right and turn into Rotary Park. Park by the public restrooms. Stroll 30 feet to the obvious cliff. Approach time: 10-12 seconds. Look for a handful of slabby short, moderate, well-protected sport/mixed lead climbs. Steep harder routes have been developed to the right around the corner. They stay dry-ish in a light rain. Good lap workouts for the power hour after work.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ouray Rotary Park-Rink Wall

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Iceman
Land of Snow & Ice
Iceman   Land of Snow & Ice
As far as glued on holds, ask Jason Nelson. Rumor is he put them there, not cool. Sep 17, 2017
gavi lightsey
Montrose CO
gavi lightsey   Montrose CO
What's the deal with the glued holds? Sep 10, 2017
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
Nice work at the Rotatory Park!!! My g/f and I loved it. We did a really good 5.6 on the far left side and the route directly right of it that is anywhere from 5.9+ to 5.10b. That route was 60 to 70ft tall. If anyone is psyched to to make a new topo of that side of the wall, please do. I observed a hilarious gumby day watching a family climb a 5.4 in tennis shoes (one of the new 5.4s). They used single carabiners on all the bolts and a figure 8 on a bight tied into a locker that was connected to the belay loop of the climber's harness. Later the family convinced the son who was young and dumb to try to move the anchor higher and was only clipped into one carabiner that was backclipped! I think I convinced them to at least to fix the backclip, because no one got hurt, and the son finally bailed. Ouray must have a file case of funny stories like this. Jul 28, 2017
AP
AP  
Just got back, and there are several new routes to the left of Dangling Participle (5.9). Went in to Ouray Mountain Sports and was informed that many of the routes were just recently put up. If I remember correctly, there are 5-6 new routes...some killer slab routes that look difficult. On the far left side, there was one route that was 80-90' up. Anybody have grades and names for these routes? Jul 11, 2017
DavidCollins
Grand Junction, CO
DavidCollins   Grand Junction, CO
What's the new line that continues above Left Handed Blunt? Jun 10, 2013
Fun climbing, great family/beginner crag. Thanks to the developers. Mar 15, 2012
Thanks, Roy. Sep 23, 2010
Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
Roy, I was later informed that the 12a grade might be a little sandbag. Routes on the right side currently go something like (L to R): 11, 10b, 10d, 11a (shares anchors with previous), 10c, 11a (shares anchors with previous), 10c (begins above a spring), 11d (leans right), 12a (shares anchors with previous, upper portion is in the 12 range, goes for about 70m, and hasn't been 100% cleaned as of 5/10). Take the grades with a grain of salt or sand :). May 7, 2010
12a......Oi! You Ouray folk are strong! And just when I thought I was becoming a decent rock climber, you go and humble me up. Thanks I guess. It is truly a great route. Some of the most fun 30 feet of climbing I have ever done. Apr 16, 2010
Robert Curry
Evans, Co
Robert Curry   Evans, Co
I was vacationing on around Ouray and had no rope but a crash pad. Fun traverse and the chips on the ground made me feel a little safer when i ventured up a little to high. All in all I would climb here again. Thank you who ever developed. Aug 30, 2009
Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
The line up and left of Sesame Street is 12a. The extension of Sesame Street up the slab is 10d (maybe sandbag). There's also two new routes on the lower angle side: 5.5 and 5.7 - summer '09. There is also a another route on the right(steep) side (far right) that is longer than the other routes and checks in at about 11d. Aug 27, 2009
We climbed 4 of the routes on the right side and they were quite good. It would be nice to have some more info on these lines. Also what's the story with the burly line above and left of Sesame Street? Jun 21, 2009
Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
About 7 routes have now been developed on the right (steeper) side of the wall. The routes are approximatley 40 ft. tall, 4-5 bolts + anchors, and are in the 5.10 - 5.11 range. Sun hits the wall mid-day, 11-2 in the winter, and longer in the summer (although the leaves on the tress provide for additional shade in the summer). It's a good fun place to do laps, train, and be social. Dec 6, 2008

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