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Routes in Hueco Wall

Bonzai Biker S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finders Keepers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lichen Monster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Losers Weepers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Made in the Shade S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moss Monkey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nature S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nuture S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prodigal Son S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Devil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roadrash S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scar Tissue S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sudden Impact S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wipeout S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Description

The Hueco Wall is a backcountry crag with a high concentration of moderates, the perfect destination for the 5.10 climber, as all but a handful of its routes fall into that rating. The routes at Hueco Wall utilize deep pockets and huecos on a vertical to gently overhanging formation, similar to the routes found at Malibu Creek State Park. The routes are fun and worth the long hike.

The Hueco Wall is the ideal summer destination as the wall is in the shade most of the day.

Getting There

take the trail past Sandstone Peak. Continue on towards the water towers, then head down towards the gully. (wall is obvious to your right) head down the dry creek bed and head up to the wall through the climber's trail

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hueco Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Fun little crag with a gently overhanging, pocket-filled rock. Some of the holds felt a bit iffy, but overall the rock was solid.

Nice hike in (for those who like hiking) and the wall remained shady until we left around 3:00 PM. Apr 10, 2017
Joe Garibay
Ventura, Ca
Joe Garibay   Ventura, Ca
All routes in 5hrs with the hike?! Impressive. Could be a record. Nice Job. Oct 26, 2016
Christian B
West Hills, California
Christian B   West Hills, California
This place is so much fun. Rad climbs that are pumpy, technical at times, and thought provoking. Did it all in 5 hours including the hike in and out. No spinners yet, except like 1. All anchors looked good but a few were loose. Nothing to trip about. Keeping this gem on the low low would be nice. Oct 25, 2016
Adam Huber
Long Beach, CA
Adam Huber   Long Beach, CA
Definitely worth the trip if you think Echo and MCSP are going to be too busy as you can almost guarantee a bit of solitude.

The approach is 2.5 miles with maybe 1000' of elevation gain getting up to Sandstone peak. The first 2.4 miles is on the well established Backbone trail. You can't miss the wall on your right (located about 1 mile past Sandstone peak). Take your time finding the path off the main trail and up to the wall. There is a semi-well established climber's trail up to the wall. If you are bush-whacking, you went the wrong way.

All of the climbs are relatively the same (lots of pockets, good feet, just a bit of overhang and pump, 90/10 solid to choss ratio) except Nature/Nurture on the far right are a bit more bouldery, and Roadrash in the center of the wall is very soft for the grade and has more of a 70/30 ratio.

Believe in yourself. Do all 14 routes (took us about 10.5 hours with the approach/deproach). There will be times of doubt.

Climb on,
Adam May 12, 2015
JeffMK  
Finally had a chance to check this place out. I've been really excited about it since that area has been one of my favorites since I was a kid. Anyway, I managed to get a little lost while trying to locate the wall. The reason for this was because I typed the coordinates from this site into my iPhone, since I roughly knew where I was going, and it led me further down the trail than it should have. You can see this yourself if you click on the link to see a map of the wall, the "A" marker is the only thing that showed up on the phone, so I went to that oblong wall that is similarly shaped just past it. After a lot of bushwhacking, I decided to turn back and climb up top the peak where that marker led me and saw the Hueco Wall behind me. Once I retraced my steps it was smooth sailing from there. I would add that for anyone who goes looking for this wall to know that if you cross the water pipe on the main trail that has hash marks hammered into it, you have just barely gone too far and turn around, do not continue down the hill.

I TR soloed for a little bit and then turned back since the weather didn't look too promising. The wall was a lot of fun, a little chossy, but to be expected for how remote this spot is. Doing the approach solo with a pack full of too much gear definitely wore me down a bit, but it was absolutely worth it for the views and great climbing. Thanks for the info about the anchors guys, it was really helpful. Jan 15, 2012
Letameow
Los Angeles, California
Letameow   Los Angeles, California
@Jeff Kashou: Not sure if anyone has answered you yet, but, yes, you can walk up on top of Hueco wall to set up anchors. Dec 10, 2011
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
Ya, the approach trail really needs some trimming. The wall is shady until about 2 pm (plus or minus) when the sun creeps on to routes on the right first, and makes its way across the wall.

The wall is still chossy, but all the bolts we used looked good.

My overall rating of the area is "ok". Good wilderness setting, bouldery movement, slightly overhanging rock, interesting and challenging climbing, most likely you'll have the place to yourself. Approach is a bit long, wall is a bit short and chossy. Sep 19, 2011
J.B.  
Make sure you bring your steroids! Aug 2, 2011
Climbed here this week. Fun climbs but a machete is needed to trim back the bushes on the final part of the approach from the creekbed. You can access the anchors from the top to set top ropes. Jul 2, 2011
JeffMK  
Is it possible to access the anchors from the top to set top ropes? Apr 25, 2011

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