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Areas in Bird's View Butte / Crow's Head Spires

Bird's View Butte 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Don Juan Spire 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 4
Luminous Being 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Rim Routes 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 5,508 ft
GPS: 38.492, -109.772 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 15,543 total · 116/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Sep 9, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Tucked away on the northeast edge of Canyonlands National Park, this collection of spires, buttes and rimrock is somewhat off the beaten path. If you’re looking for some adventurous climbing though, this place is worth a visit.

The obvious objectives here are Bird’s View Butte and its semi-detached Satellite Spire, or the Crow’s Head Spires which are known individually as Don Juan and Luminous Being spires. Several lines have also been established on the 400 ft Rim Wall which must be rappelled to reach the base of the routes. Of course this also means that if you don’t climb a rim route back out, you have a 400 foot jug at the end of your day.

If you plan to jug back out you will need two ropes for fixing. We fixed one rope from the rim down into the chimney and the second rope from there to the next anchor and from that anchor to the ground. I was happy to have a helmet for the jug back to the rim.

The Wingate in this area is often of excellent but loose rock is encountered at some point on most routes. Bring and knife and some replacement webbing for the anchors.

Getting There

From Moab, take 191 north out of town to its junction with 313. Follow 313 to the turnoff for Dead Horse Point State Park but do not turn. Continue straight on Island in the Sky road for just over a mile and turn left on a dirt road that heads out across the mesa. Once on the dirt road, continue for just over 2 miles to a fork in the road. Take the right fork and continue for another 2 miles to the end of the road. The road gets rough near the end but it’s a short hike to the edge of the mesa.

Finding the anchors to rappel from the rim can be tricky and involves some exposed scrambling. Basically you are aiming for the point on the rim that is closest to the Crow’s Head Spires. When you’re getting close you will have to chimney down behind a giant boulder and work down and around to the left on a ledge system always trying to get to the point closest to the spires. The anchor itself is on a vertical surface and will likely require some searching. Be careful!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bird's View Butte / Crow's Head Spires

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Lizard Action
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Think Ya Should
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lizard Action Luminous Being
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Think Ya Should Rim Routes
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Bird's View Butte / Crow's Head Spires »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
There is a way to get in without the rappels and long jug out. It's been years but one can access the spire fairly easily via Shafer Canyon. There use to be a great camp site in the mouth of the canyon but the bearded Toyota truck fanatic desert sage Pete G. recently told me it's been blocked off and is way off limits. Look at the topo and you'll see it's a fairly obvious approach. May 29, 2008
Allen's right, there must be a practical approach from the Potash/White Rim/Shafer Trail area. The first ascent of the spire was done before the rap route was in. We put the rap in and were pretty surprised to find we'd been scooped on the FA... We were very motivated to complete the jugs by the strategically placed beverage cooler. May 30, 2008
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
I sure remember Steve, Jeff, and Robert coming back from that block break at CC after they climbed the thing! They where so excited. The rest of us had just wasted the four days out at Indian Creek with the crowds (maybe six people!)

Nice to see you posting Bryan. I have some great old slides of you from the Valley in 1981. How's Jay? May 30, 2008
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
Years?? back I established two 3-pitch routes on the rim to climb back out and up to the car. These routes are high quality adventure climbs...(varying crack sizes). These are described in the Bjornstadt book with the picture of the Crow heads and the Bird's View Butte on the Cover. Over the coarse of 4-5 years with an assortment of friends, we established 17 new pitches in this area. The Rim routes... Two 3-pitch routes, Think Ya Should-5.11c and the Lazer Crack-5.11aC1. Also The Titanic Corner 2-pitches 5.11a. If you are facing the obvious prow of the rim, these routes are located to the left between 300'-400' from the prow. A great alternative to jugging out... today I don't have the time to post all this info but will try to post it soon.... Feb 8, 2010
Hi Drew,
The routes you describe sound great – stiff, as one might expect! We had often wondered about the climbing potential around there. We especially wondered if the rap route might go. Have you heard if it has been climbed? Apr 11, 2011
Heads up! The 3 lead bolts and 2 anchor bolts on pitch 4 of Satellite Spire have been chopped. This isn't a big issue since pitch 4 and 5 can be linked and you can protect the OW with a #4 big bro. It's only an issue if you only bring gear up to a #6 and have to run it out 20-30' above your tipped out #6. I'd write up a description for Satellite Spire but we didn't climb the whole thing. We rappelled from the top of Unemployment Line to the top of pitch 3 and then climbed one pitch to the spire summit. Feb 4, 2017
This route was put up on 4-11-1999 by John & Ralph it's 11a
Name- Polish Italian route
Over 10 bolts were added on the second ascent by Paul Ross, which were then removed on the 3rd ascent. Apr 1, 2017
Thanks for the history Kiley! Apr 27, 2017

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