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Bird's View Butte / Crow's Head Spires Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 5,508 ft |
| GPS: |
38.49186, -109.77193 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 31,713 total · 162/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Brandewie on Sep 9, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Tucked away on the northeast edge of Canyonlands National Park, this collection of spires, buttes and rimrock is somewhat off the beaten path. If youre looking for some adventurous climbing though, this place is worth a visit.
The obvious objectives here are Birds View Butte and its semi-detached Satellite Spire, or the Crows Head Spires which are known individually as Don Juan and Luminous Being spires. Several lines have also been established on the 400 ft Rim Wall which must be rappelled to reach the base of the routes. Of course this also means that if you dont climb a rim route back out, you have a 400 foot jug at the end of your day.
If you plan to jug back out you will need two ropes for fixing. We fixed one rope from the rim down into the chimney and the second rope from there to the next anchor and from that anchor to the ground. I was happy to have a helmet for the jug back to the rim.
The Wingate in this area is often of excellent but loose rock is encountered at some point on most routes. Bring and knife and some replacement webbing for the anchors.
The obvious objectives here are Birds View Butte and its semi-detached Satellite Spire, or the Crows Head Spires which are known individually as Don Juan and Luminous Being spires. Several lines have also been established on the 400 ft Rim Wall which must be rappelled to reach the base of the routes. Of course this also means that if you dont climb a rim route back out, you have a 400 foot jug at the end of your day.
If you plan to jug back out you will need two ropes for fixing. We fixed one rope from the rim down into the chimney and the second rope from there to the next anchor and from that anchor to the ground. I was happy to have a helmet for the jug back to the rim.
The Wingate in this area is often of excellent but loose rock is encountered at some point on most routes. Bring and knife and some replacement webbing for the anchors.
Getting There
From Moab, take 191 north out of town to its junction with 313. Follow 313 to the turnoff for Dead Horse Point State Park but do not turn. Continue straight on Island in the Sky road for just over a mile and turn left on a dirt road that heads out across the mesa. Once on the dirt road, continue for just over 2 miles to a fork in the road. Take the right fork and continue for another 2 miles to the end of the road. The road gets rough near the end but its a short hike to the edge of the mesa.
Finding the anchors to rappel from the rim can be tricky and involves some exposed scrambling. Basically you are aiming for the point on the rim that is closest to the Crows Head Spires. When youre getting close you will have to chimney down behind a giant boulder and work down and around to the left on a ledge system always trying to get to the point closest to the spires. The anchor itself is on a vertical surface and will likely require some searching. Be careful!
Finding the anchors to rappel from the rim can be tricky and involves some exposed scrambling. Basically you are aiming for the point on the rim that is closest to the Crows Head Spires. When youre getting close you will have to chimney down behind a giant boulder and work down and around to the left on a ledge system always trying to get to the point closest to the spires. The anchor itself is on a vertical surface and will likely require some searching. Be careful!
Classic Climbing Routes at Bird's View Butte / Crow's Head Spires
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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