Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Eden Park

East Wall, The 0 / 0 / 7 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Mirror Pond Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
West Wall, The 0 / 1 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Woods Wall, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 650 ft
GPS: 39.112, -84.492 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: outdooreric on Sep 5, 2007 with updates
Admins: Courtney Curtner
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Eden Park, located near downtown Cincinnati, has a 25 foot tall, 3-400 foot long, old reservoir wall. Here you will find many locals literally learning the ropes, since you can set up top-rope routes along the entire wall. The wall has two sport-climbing routes, also. The landing is almost always flat and grassy.

The wall is mainly used for top-rope, however you will find many people use it for boulder practice. There are 10+ boulder problems from V0-V5. Traversing is very good for endurance practice. After a good rain, the wall takes a couple days to truly dry out.

Area Etiquette
Nothing too surprising here. Just common sense. The park knows people climb here and has not said anything about it yet, so don't high ball unless you know you are capable of it. It only takes on injury for the park to ban climbing.

Getting There

Follow Eden Park Drive to Martin street. Park and walk 40 feet to the wall clearly visible from the road. Not too far from the Ohio river or I-75.

20 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Eden Park Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Dante L  
Rockso,Thanks for posting Bill's topo,Man that brings back some lost brain cells. If you are still in contact with the captain static (Bill) please tell him hi (high) from me.
Dante May 29, 2017
DrRockso
Red River Gorge, KY
DrRockso   Red River Gorge, KY
Hey Guys,

I posted Bill's 1980 Topo under the pictures for Eden Park.

Grant,

Who has given you permission to add bolted anchors? I've already had to chop a handful of bolts that were put in by amateurs there. They used hardware store lag bolts with holes drilled to the wrong size, as well as placing top rope anchors so close to the edge that they would have split the concrete on a fall. May 24, 2017
Dante L  
Grant I like what you are doing, Back in the 70's the Eden Park walls were my playground. Bill S and I probably climbed every line there and touched every hold on those walls.

Most of the lines we soloed, cool that you are turning them into sports climbs but hope that you are keeping them a little dicey - maybe just two bolts, one midway and the other a little closer to the top? Apr 23, 2017
hey DrRockso,
I have heard about this back-of-the-napkin topo map! It would be a great addition, please post it if you get it. I will say, though, that I don't think in the 70s and 80s they had 5 new sport routes, which we have bought gear for and been working on adding. If you want to get really technical about whether or not "development" requires being the first ascent, then yeah, I guess I'm not developing. Either way, I have been given permission to hand drill in sport climbing gear, but someone apparently will come and chop them off. Some local, I suppose. So I'd argue that I'm developing, but to each his own. Mar 14, 2017
DrRockso
Red River Gorge, KY
DrRockso   Red River Gorge, KY
Grant, I appreciate you sharing your routes here on mountain project! I don't know if I would call what you're doing "developing" I imagine just about every route imaginable was done over 30 years ago. Bill Strachan sent me an old topo he made for the area which I think was from the late 70's or early 80's, they led most of the routes on back wall on trad gear! I'll try to find it so I can post it up, it's a great piece of Eden climbing history! Feb 6, 2017
Your more than welcome, Michael! I plan to spend some more time developing it when I get the chance through the winter (its the only time I'll be in Cincinnati). Please drop a route or two online if you find something new and interesting! Nov 30, 2016
I climbed here once during the summer of 2016 and was pleasantly surprised. now that the photos and beta have been added, it appears I was climbing a route near pillar #2. I would say it was 5.9 depending on how far right or left you traverse on your way up. Pretty easy to go off route if you let yourself wander. It could have been much more difficult by staying directly under the anchor point. I tried a few of the boulder problems pictured (though the pictures weren't up yet) and found them to be pretty challenging.

Thanks Grant Eaton for putting some effort into developing the area a bit. I'm going to spend some more time here when the weather is agreeable! There's even a few bolts to clip back in the woods area. Nov 29, 2016
Over the summer of 2016, I visited this location weekly to develop it with some routes/ photos so that future climbers can find and enjoy the fun niches that exist here. If your into bouldering, I highly recommend "Pocket 'n Lockit" and "Battlemount Blitz", which are both really fun, difficult problems.
Please take the time to comment and rate the problems, also message Grantman100@gmail.com if you disagree with any grades found on this page. Thanks! Nov 3, 2016
Michael Day!
Boulder, CO parking lots
Michael Day!   Boulder, CO parking lots
This location is great for bouldering/soloing (depending on your skill level) and also a good training ground for teaching friends the "ropes" literally. It is smooth and technical in some areas while other areas are filled with textured jugs, but watch out... It gets wet and stays wet and some holds can be very dirty, I've even stuck my hand in a birds nest while climbing the first bolted line on the shaded side! Still a very fun local place to go if you live near by or are driving though and need a quick outdoor fix. Apr 18, 2012
Also has a long but not as high wall way in the back of the field underneath Mirror Lake that is great for traversing, bouldering, short topropes, or if you want to to just to solo. Its only about 20' high so its great to solo. Can make any of the above activities as hard as you like or as easy as you like. Its up to you. Just be aware: some of the rock near the top of this wall might be loose. Aug 2, 2010

More About Eden Park

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Eden Park (37)

Most Popular · Newest