Elevation: 8,000 ft
GPS: 32.432, -110.778 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37,577 total · 224/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Sep 5, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

Wilderness of Rocks Bouldering

The Wilderness of Rocks is a labyrinthine landscape of multicolored granite on the south flank of Mt. Lemmon, where towering domes, alien boulders, and hidden chasms rest in a forest of massive pine trees and scrubby oaks. It is truly wilderness: remote, alive, and unforgiving. The Aspen fire (2003) left many downed trees and many more ready to fall, and a lot of loose earth and locust. Lions and bears live here. There is a lot of water, but not reliably. Come prepared and be smart.

Climbers have been bouldering here for years, but development was minimal and mostly contained to rock near the northeast end of the WOR trail. As hard bouldering boomed in recent years, dedicated pebble wrestlers pressed deeper into the wilderness, uncovering hundreds of untouched problems on diversely featured stone. As of this writing (2017) the majority remain incomplete or undiscovered.

Approaches range from longish to brutal, with the deepest areas requiring complex off-trail routefinding well over an hour from the trailhead. Camping is allowed and recommended. Please camp only in established sites and be firewise.

See oldpueblobouldering.com for more information

Location

Take Mt. Lemmon Highway through Summerhaven to the picnic/parking area at Marshall Gulch. (In winter, the last ~1/4 mile of this road is gated. Park before the gate and walk.) Pick up the Marshall Gulch trail right of the bathrooms and follow it 1.2 miles (elevation gain about 500 ft) to a 5-way intersection with the Aspen, Mint Springs, and Wilderness of Rocks trails. Follow the Wilderness of Rocks trail west/downhill. The Entrance Boulders surround the uppermost section of the trail. Other areas are further southwest/downhill and require leaving the main trail.

Special Considerations

This is an exposed, high-elevation area and weather appears rapidly and unpredictably. Severe thunderstorms are possible year round, bringing lightning, heavy rain and hail, and flash flooding that can disrupt or block travel even on major trails. Winter storms produce heavy snowfall and very low temperatures.

Cross-country travel is cryptic and perilous. Hidden slabs, sinkholes, and wrong turns can ruin a trip fast. Trails fade. Cairns disappear. Missteps and accidents may bear cosmic consequences. Consider asking for a tour of remote areas on your first visit.

This entire area is protected as part of the Pusch Ridge Wilderness. Tread lightly and take pains to follow established approach routes. Refrain from recklessly destroying vegetation. No excessive landscaping. Never feed or disturb wildlife.

49 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wilderness of Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 9
For Those About to Rock
Boulder
V4 6B
 4
Bees Knees
Boulder
V5 6C
 7
Pimpin' Curly
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
Zester
Boulder
V5 6C
 3
Blue Duck
Boulder, Alpine
V6 7A
 3
Cocoa Pebbles
Boulder
V6 7A PG13
 4
The Flame and the Void
Boulder, Alpine
V7 7A+
 5
Harvest Moon
Boulder
V10 7C+
 5
Time Under Tension
Boulder
V10 7C+
 4
Clockwork Lemmon
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 21
Blue Collar Tweekers
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
My Name is Mud
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
[Redacted]
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
For Those About to Rock Entrance Boulders > AC/DC Wall
 9
V1 5 Boulder
Bees Knees Entrance Boulders > SW cluster
 4
V4 6B Boulder
Pimpin' Curly Entrance Boulders > Swimming Hole
 7
V5 6C Boulder
Zester Entrance Boulders > Zester cluster
 4
V5 6C Boulder
Blue Duck Magic Forest > Hellbitch Cluster
 3
V5 6C Boulder, Alpine
Cocoa Pebbles Entrance Boulders > AC/DC Wall
 3
V6 7A Boulder
The Flame and the Void Warped Wall
 4
V6 7A PG13 Boulder, Alpine
Harvest Moon Entrance Boulders > 45 Degree Wall
 5
V7 7A+ Boulder
Time Under Tension Entrance Boulders > Ruins Cluster
 5
V10 7C+ Boulder
Clockwork Lemmon Entrance Boulders > Zester cluster
 4
V10 7C+ Boulder
Blue Collar Tweekers Primus Wall
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
My Name is Mud Primus Wall
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
[Redacted] Primus Wall
 10
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
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