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Routes in Slick Rock

Memorial Route (aka Caudill Queen King Route *original name*) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Regular Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scenic Traction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slippery Slope T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 6,894 ft
GPS: 44.95, -115.949 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 18,059 total, 144/month
Shared By: JacobD on Aug 21, 2007
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle
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Description

Slick Rock, located ~10 miles northeast of McCall, Idaho in the Lick Creek subrange of the Salmon River mountain range, offers one of the longest continuous technical rock routes in the state. Slick Rock is a huge face of quality granite. With the most central part up to the top being about 1200 feet.

Getting There

From McCall, ID, follow the road east to Ponderosa State Park (big green sign). Skirt around Payette Lake and the golf course. Follow Lake Drive until finding a gravel road that turns off to the right. The road runs past Little Payette Lake (Road #48 - Lick Creek Road).

Travel ~8 miles on Yellow Pine Road to a creek crossing. Camp there at primitive Lick Creek Campground (free). A beautiful stream running through the campground is a great water source, although purification is advised. Slick Rock is only 1-2 miles further, and is very obvious from the road. Park in the pull-out at the Slick Rock signpost. Cross the North Fork creek on the log jam and meander up the hillside to the base of Slick Rock (~15 minutes). The Regular Route starts almost directly beneath the summit.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Slick Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Regular Route
Trad 8 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Memorial Route (aka Caudill Queen Kin…
Sport 9 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Scenic Traction
Trad 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slippery Slope
Trad, Sport 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Regular Route 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 8 pitches
Memorial Route (aka Caudill… 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 9 pitches
Scenic Traction 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 7 pitches
Slippery Slope 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Slick Rock »

Weather Averages

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Low
 
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Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
Today Jim Pace and I completed brushing and wind fall clearing on the Slickrock walkoff. Also trimmed the pungies on the log jam bridge over Lick Creek. All now in as good a condition as it ever gets. Go for it climbers! Sep 2, 2017
PSA/Rant: There is naturally a fair bit of loose rock on this exfoliation dome. Please tread lightly and be extremely careful when climbing above other parties. We were nearly struck by rockfall intentionally released by a party who were trying to clear bad rock from the memorial route on Saturday morning. If you must trundle, at least be absolutely certain there is no one around whatsoever (e.g., no other cars parked on the road, no one seen in the vicinity of the route/base all day, not on 4th-of-July weekend). It should go without saying, but this logic should extend to all climbing areas, particularly long routes where visibility becomes diminished after leaving the ground. Jul 3, 2017
Trevor.
Boise, ID
Trevor.   Boise, ID
The log jam at the creek crossing changed this winter with the high runoff flows, and is now a bit sketchier than in the past. While walking across the single log bridges to the main log jam is tempting, one of them cracked loudly under my weight, and seemed ready to break. I'd recommend just wading the creek below the log jam instead.

Also the descent gully loosened up quite a bit since last season, be extra careful in there, especially if anyone is below you. Jul 2, 2017
Just up there this morning. River washed out the log jam, it was unsafe to cross at normal spot. You could drive another mile up road and bushwhack after bridge I think. There seemed to be too much snow for walk off, but can't say for sure.. Jun 8, 2017
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
No need to downclimb the steep part of the walkoff gully (see picture). From tree with rap slings follow faint trail left (west). A short bit of 4th class downclimbing leads to the base of gully below rap tree. Jun 4, 2015
Neil Crowson
Salt Lake City, Utah
Neil Crowson   Salt Lake City, Utah
I think the term run out or R is used way to loosely in this area. I thought the memorial route was extremely overbolted. And very soft for 5.8. (Not that the grade matters) if you are looking to move over a lot of rock in McCall don't be intimitaded by the slick rock. PS IMO, 90 % of these bolts are redundant as the face could protect naturally with healthy run outs over easy (5.5) terrain. Not to mention that these bolts could be used in more development further up the road! Aug 3, 2014
As of 25 Oct 13, the Ponderosa State Park was closed. Gravity Sports provided us a topo for the Regular Route after asking nicely.

Key piece of beta for the regular route is to find the short left facing corner. Send it, work your way up and right, look for a pod and the shuts or bypass them and move back left (extremely run out), and the up to build a belay near the small pine tree. Oct 30, 2013
No topo at the Ponderosa State Park VC, The National Forest office in town or Gravity Sports as of 10/22/13. An upload would be great. Oct 22, 2013
how about uploading a scan of that slick rock topo ! Aug 3, 2012
JacobD
Flagstaff, AZ
JacobD   Flagstaff, AZ
Visitors center at Ponderosa State Park has topos in a folder at the visitors center. I know because I put them there, and I bet they are still there! Jul 25, 2012
Duane z
Cascade, ID
Duane z   Cascade, ID
Does anyone know where I can get a topo of slick rock routes? Jul 4, 2012
Shapp  
About 7 or 8 years ago, on the far right side of slick rock proper one can see 2 prominant huge cracks at the top 1/3 of the crag. We climbed a route more or less staight up from the bottom to these double cracks then up to the top via the left crack, leaving no fixed gear but passing some slings and couple fixed stoppers. It was in the 5.7 range or so, full standard rack to 5" and double ropes were handy. I know we were not the first on this line. May 31, 2012
jhump  
Does anyone know of any history of climbing on the large granite walls to the right of the main Slickrock formation?

Thanks. Sep 10, 2008

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