[Hide Comment] You would need to be *very* bored. The rock on all of these routes is utter crap. Small holds break, big holds crumble, your feet will skate around on the dozen of small cubes of rock that come off of every foothold.

Seriously, skip it. I climbed here a couple of times with Luke in the mid 90s and it's not even vaguely worth the approach. Mar 23, 2009

[Hide Comment] The approach is quite an endeavor. There are downed trees everywhere and thickets of Locust to stab and scratch you. In the end, we thought we got up near Lighthouse Tower, but weren't sure. We never saw any hangers for Ewoks, Pigs, and Bears, but we're not sure we'd ever know because: a) there are no pictures of it on its beta page; and b) it gives its location based on a reference to "Stoormtrooper", which is not documented.

Here's how we got up near the base of what we thought was Lighthouse Tower.

1) We left the established trail heading to The Arch before The Arch's side trail leaves the main trail. We left the trail at 35.91029N/106.33244W and headed on a bearing of 340 degrees (true) up a gully for a bit and then we bore right a bit to to get out of the gully and up on the high ground between gullies.

2) We found a cairn at 35.91091N/106.33212W. We continued on the high ground, which wasn't too bad in terms of downed trees and Locust thickets, in a northeasterly direction and then we turned to a northwesterly direction.

3) We stopped at 35.91223N/106.33293W, where looking pretty much due north we saw a tower to our north with a greenish dome (see attached photo).

Maybe this will help someone get there. It is a grind, but I can't speak to the quality of climb at this point.
Nov 27, 2016

[Hide Comment] Hi Brett,
(‘23 edits) I took and added a pic showing most of the lines in the old Burns article/photo, after exploring there this spring. It’s probably easiest to find Lighthouse Tower first to get oriented.

Ewoks, Pigs & Bears is farther to the right (north) -- it is on a “second higher tier” above a vertical dark water stained panel (guessing this is Stormtrooper, on the rare occasions ice sticks on it).

These climbs are probably most similar to the climbs on the North side of the Dungeon, but have been only seldom climbed. All climbs but the old aid ladder have hangers on the bolts. If "we" cleaned up the approach trail and a path along the base, fixed anchors as needed, and cleaned the loose rock to the extent climbers have in the Las Conchas area, it could be an okay alternative for easy sport climbing for locals bored of the Gallows Edge/Las Conchas circuit.. but that all seems unlikely to happen. I didn't see any amazing potential for great 5.11/harder sport climbs, but maybe I didn't look enough. Won't be interesting enough for out-of-town climbers. The approach is less thorny if you hike up the “ridge” below Lighthouse Tower as compared to traversing over near the base. With fewer downed logs in the way now, it seems easier to get to than it was a few years ago when I first scoped it, and takes me under 30 minutes. Pretty spot! Hope this helps. Nov 27, 2016