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Routes in Crabby Appleton Area

Crabby Appleton T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Elevation: 4,893 ft
GPS: 36.119, -115.491 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,762 total · 14/month
Shared By: John Wilder on Aug 18, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

Description

This is the gully that sits just to the right of Magic Mountain and directly across from Cat in the Hat. It has an east facing wall, which gets sun until mid-morning to noon, depending on the season.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

Approach via the Pine Creek trail, cutting left into the wash when the trail forks at the base of Mescalito. Follow the wash until it begins to curve to the right and a gully is visible directly ahead. Find a faint trail skirting the left side of the wash leading into the gully. From here, work your way up the gully to the routes.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Crabby Appleton Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Crabby Appleton
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crabby Appleton 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 4 pitches
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Politically Correct Ball
From WA to AZ
Politically Correct Ball   From WA to AZ
Hey, I just climbed something on this wall and don't know what it's called. It *may* have been "Tom Terrific" but the description I've seen doesn't match it 100%.

P1: Start a little up the descent ramp under a lot of dark. There's an obvious crack/flake that terminates at the point another starts (second one is flare/seamed out and doesn't take pro). After a little runout there is a V1 boulder problem and an easy left-slanting ramp leading to overhanging flakes. Pitch terminates at a button head ~140ft.

P2: Go up to a right-facing arch. Lot of moss. Found a bail anchor with 1990s biners, wallnuts, and sling. ~80ft.

P3: Traverse left clipping the 20yr old bail sling and run it out up some super thin/slab to a dish, #1 under the arch, keep traversing for 30ft past the arch then up an obvious crack to the top. This pitch didn't seemed like it had been climbed as I broke a few graham-cracker flakes including one I was pulling on and nearly went for a whoop-de-do (excellent pitch, however). 200ft

I'd give it a star or two (the moss factor prevents me from giving any more). Really good, committing moves with tricky pro. Apr 11, 2017
You can tunnel under the boulders blocking the top of the gully, not tough. Climb up pocketed rock on the right, enjoy the munge, then hang a left and head for daylight. Way easier than it looks. That said this approach is not casual; has 5th class sections, moss, slick rock, bushwhacking, routefinding etc. With packs this approach would be at least 20 minutes longer than Cat in the Hat, probably longer. Slings up there could use replacing, and you may want to rap more than one section depending on conditions. Sep 13, 2011
Another approach option, we employed recently: Climb Olive Oil and descend off the back, through the little notch (at the very head of the normal O.O. descent gully) and down that gully to the base of the route. One rappel in the gully just before the start of Crabby Appleton... Oct 18, 2009
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
One good way to handle the approach is by linking with one of the routes on the Magic Triangle or Community Pillar. For example, climb Magic Triangle and descend the back (south) side. Start at the minor notch that separates the Magic Triangle from the main part of the Community Pillar. A little downclimbing and a short rappel or two will take you right to the starting area of Crabby Appleton. Oct 10, 2008
Some rocks collapsed into that hole a couple of years ago. You have to go around the outside now...

Jason Oct 10, 2008
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
If memory serves, the gully appears blocked by an enormous boulder, but it turns out you can climb under the thing and tunnel up to the top. This is a good landmark to know you are in the correct place. Oct 10, 2008

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