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Write-off Rock

Washington > Central-W Casca… > N Bend & Vicinity > Exit 38 > Deception Crags

Description

This short approach, easy routes (5.4-5.9), and setting makes this a popular area both for climbing and spectating. And with only about six routes, get here early to avoid waiting to get on the rock.

The rock is the standard metamorphic rock found in this region, although it is slightly slabby and very polished on the center climbs. A large ledge in the center of the wall makes several of the climbs significantly easier. The cliff is right off the old railroad grade, now a popular trail, and faces north.

 Remember to keep the railroad grade clear so bikers and hikers don'’t have to go around your gear.

Getting There

Where the trail from the parking lot connects with the Iron Horse Trail, under 10min from the parking lot, you are looking at Write-Off Rock. It is the extension of the Substation crag that extends above the trestle and Iron Horse Trail.

Please use bolts correctly:

-->The following is contributed by long-time route developer in the area (copied from his comment below): 

NOTE: BOLTS AND HANGERS ARE BEING DAMAGED ON THIS ROCK BY MISUSE. I think people or groups are using protection bolts as directionals from anchors on neighboring climbs, and this is twisting bolt hangers in ways that can loosen the nuts and damage the bolts' threads.
The route Legacy Bolt was installed in fall 2019. Last year the second bolt hanger went missing, and the bolt threads were so damaged that a nut could not be threaded onto the bolt to replace the hanger. The bolt had to be replaced in a new hole. This spring the hanger on the last bolt went missing. When it was replaced yesterday the bolt spun in the hole and was loose. Fortunately it did re-tighten, but it is likely to loosen again. Other hangers on Write-Off Rock have loosened, though I don't know if they have disappeared.
Please use this cliff wisely. It is probably the most climbed-on cliff in the state and the anchors get heavy use. It appears that someone or some practice is loosening the bolts, possibly by toproping a route to the side of top anchors by using bolts as directionals. If the anchor is above and to the right of the clipped directional, the force from the weighted toprope can spin the hanger counterclockwise, loosening it. Then the loose pieces mar the bolt threads, and/or the nut and hanger fly off into the unknown.
This should be preventable:
Read up on the mechanics of bolts and placement.
-Check the tightness of bolt hangers and nuts when you climb. A spinner can be snugged somewhat by turning the hanger counterclockwise, hand-tightening the nut, and using a quickdraw to crank the bolt hanger clockwise.
-Avoid setting directionals that lever on the bolt hangers. Toprope from anchors directly above your line.
-If something is wrong, post it.
-Consider carrying a wrench or other tool to tighten loose bolt hangers on cliffs you visit frequently.
-Bring a bolt hanger and nut or two to the cliff if one was missing last time.
-Don't assume a route developer or "the locals" will maintain and upgrade fixed protection.
-Donate to the WARP (Washington Anchor replacement Project).

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Write-off Rock Overview
[Hide Photo] Write-off Rock Overview
View of the bridge on the Iron Horse Trail from the top of Write-Off Rock Wall.
[Hide Photo] View of the bridge on the Iron Horse Trail from the top of Write-Off Rock Wall.
Popular, warm March day at Write-off rock. All routes visible.
[Hide Photo] Popular, warm March day at Write-off rock. All routes visible.
The top of Write-Off rock
[Hide Photo] The top of Write-Off rock
Michael on his first time climbing outside
[Hide Photo] Michael on his first time climbing outside
One of the harder Write off routes
[Hide Photo] One of the harder Write off routes
Young climbers on an October evening. Route is Crotchety Old Men.
[Hide Photo] Young climbers on an October evening. Route is Crotchety Old Men.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

AdamG
Berkeley, CA
[Hide Comment] These routes are very well bolted. I don't consider any of them run-out. Great crag to take some new climbers out to, or if you want to do your first sport lead. Aug 9, 2012
Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] L-R order here:

Bu the Rabbit
Flammable
Knife
new unknown route
Mom theres pink
Bottoms up Nov 3, 2014
Garth Donald
Chelan, WA
[Hide Comment] Nice area for beginners, nice seating if people want to spectate. There's even a 5.4 on the far left (Bu Rabbit). Beware climbing past the top of the routes...there are some rather large, loose rocks up there. Great Warm-Up spot if you are heading to Nevermind Wall up the road.

And keep your gear clear of the path. Bikes zip through that area pretty often. Mar 4, 2015
Daniel Chode Rider
Truck, Wenatchee
[Hide Comment] Very polished stone for the most part. You can scramble up (for topropes) on either the left or right side; the left is straightforward 4th class, and the right is second or third but with much more bushwhacking and tree climbing. Apr 12, 2021
[Hide Comment] I agree with Daniel - while the routes here are best for beginners, there’s a ton of polished rock because it’s so popular. I’m not a great climber by any means, but trying to start a 5.7 here was impossible since every hand and foot hold was super smooth. If it’s a humid day, expect it to be even worse. Jul 8, 2021
Mack Johnson
Silverdale, WA
[Hide Comment] NOTE: BOLTS AND HANGERS ARE BEING DAMAGED ON THIS ROCK BY MISUSE. I think people or groups are using protection bolts as directionals from anchors on neighboring climbs, and this is twisting bolt hangers in ways that can loosen the nuts and damage the bolts' threads.
The route Legacy Bolt was installed in fall 2019. Last year the second bolt hanger went missing, and the bolt threads were so damaged that a nut could not be threaded onto the bolt to replace the hanger. The bolt had to be replaced in a new hole. This spring the hanger on the last bolt went missing. When it was replaced yesterday the bolt spun in the hole and was loose. Fortunately it did re-tighten, but it is likely to loosen again. Other hangers on Write-Off Rock have loosened, though I don't know if they have disappeared.
Please use this cliff wisely. It is probably the most climbed-on cliff in the state and the anchors get heavy use. It appears that someone or some practice is loosening the bolts, possibly by toproping a route to the side of top anchors by using bolts as directionals. If the anchor is above and to the right of the clipped directional, the force from the weighted toprope can spin the hanger counterclockwise, loosening it. Then the loose pieces mar the bolt threads, and/or the nut and hanger fly off into the unknown.
This should be preventable:
Read up on the mechanics of bolts and placement.
-Check the tightness of bolt hangers and nuts when you climb. A spinner can be snugged somewhat by turning the hanger counterclockwise, hand-tightening the nut, and using a quickdraw to crank the bolt hanger clockwise.
-Avoid setting directionals that lever on the bolt hangers. Toprope from anchors directly above your line.
-If something is wrong, post it.
-Consider carrying a wrench or other tool to tighten loose bolt hangers on cliffs you visit frequently.
-Bring a bolt hanger and nut or two to the cliff if one was missing last time.
-Don't assume a route developer or "the locals" will maintain and upgrade fixed protection.
-Donate to the WARP (Washington Anchor replacement Project). Aug 27, 2021
[Hide Comment] Has a new route been added between 'Bottoms Up' and 'Mom there's Pink in my Burger?" I counted 8 routes on this wall, and the one just left of Bottoms Up is definitely harder than 5.6... Jun 25, 2022
Neal Stein
Snoqualmie, WA
[Hide Comment] I'm with Matt. There is a route between Bottoms Up and Pink in my Burger that is not listed here. I'd call it a 5.7+ or maybe 5.8-. High anchor chains with steel biners above Bottoms Up anchor, out of sight from the belayer. Sep 30, 2023