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South Nuttall

W Virginia > New River Gorge > New River Gorge Proper
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

This is one of the NRG area's more remote crags. It can be complicated to get to, and has a lack of easy warmups, but once you get this place's logistics dialed, you'll be rewarded with ample summer shade, numerous 5.12 cracks, first ascent potential, and solitude. Be aware that many of the easier routes (under 5.12) lack top anchors. Some of the sport climbs may not have the best bolts either; this place has not yet seen much rebolting and many routes were put up 20 years ago.

Getting There

This is a big crag with numerous approaches, none of them very straightforward. Most NRG climbers have gotten lost their first time coming out here, and it is a good idea to plan for at least two hours of hiking and bushwhacking your first time out here.

The Elverton Road approach outlined in the guidebook is currently off-limits. The best way in is to approach from the Arrowhead Trails. Rapping in to the area of your choice is the way to go and avoids the slogging through the nettle and poison ivy of the walk-down. There are a couple easy-fifth class climb-outs on the downstream end of the crag, as well as a walk-out a ways upstream of The Beckoning.

It's best to get a tour from a local for this place; ask at Waterstone for details.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
The Beckoning
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
Unnamed
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
Heaven Cent
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 2
Inchworm
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 2
Desperately Seeking Susan
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 1
Guillotine
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
The New Traditionalists
Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
 3
Temporary Insanity
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
Munson Burner
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
M&M
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Finger Crack in White Corner
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 0
Killing Fields
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Judgement Night
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 1
Timber
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
Luv Nuthing
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 1
Evil Dick
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
Converging Paths
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Beckoning
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Unnamed
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Heaven Cent
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Inchworm
 2
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Desperately Seeking Susan
 2
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Guillotine
 1
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The New Traditionalists
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Temporary Insanity
 3
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 Trad
Munson Burner
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
M&M
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Finger Crack in White Corner
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Killing Fields
 0
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Judgement Night
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Timber
 1
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Luv Nuthing
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Evil Dick
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport
Converging Paths
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Along the approach road, you'll see a few trees with rocks pinned between them. Leave the main road at this point and head downhill (possible faint trail).
[Hide Photo] Along the approach road, you'll see a few trees with rocks pinned between them. Leave the main road at this point and head downhill (possible faint trail).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
[Hide Comment] really cool area with way more than its share of 5.12 cracks. I don't want to give too much away about it, since the guidebook gives a pretty good description, but some beta: some of the trails to the crag are easy to lose. Wear long pants, even in the summer; they may as well call the place "South Nettle." If you can find the rap-in point, do it. It's much easier to navigate this place above the cliff, though it may take a couple trips to get the geography dialed. Jun 12, 2011
Lee Kennedy
Raleigh, NC
[Hide Comment] ACCESS UPDATE: The Elverton Road access point is no longer usable. The land was purchased about a year ago and the new owner does not want people parking/hiking on it. You'll have to use Arrowhead. Sep 17, 2017