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Cecret Lake
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Albion Basin
Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
There are several crags in the area, two are just below Cecret Lake - Whipper Wall and Creek Side and three that are above Green Stash, Stinky Stash and Cecret Stash. The crags are shadded throughout much of the day making it a nice place to climb on hot days. Unfortunately this can also make them very crowded. More than a few parties can make the crags a zoo as the routes are very close to each other.
The rock is quartzite like that found in Big Cottonwood Canyon but with some bands of non or semi-metamorphosed sandstone on many of the routes. The routes are realitively clean - however there is still some lose rock as such helmets are advised for both leaders and belayers.
There is a mini guide to this area.
Getting There
Drive up to the top of Little Cottonwood Canyon stopping at the information kiosk and let the nice person giving out trail maps know that you are going up climbing. Continue up the road which eventually turns to dirt. This is now the Albion Basin Road which leads to a camp ground and several day parking lot. You can park at the end of the road at the Cecret Lake Trailhead. However, it is often very busy with hikers as it is the most popular area in the Wasatch. As such, it may be necessary to park in the lower lots or even down at the town of Alta and take the free shuttle van which runs continuously during the weekends.
From the parking lot hike up the Crecet Lake Trail. Just before the switchbacks leading up to the lake and off to the left is the Whipper and Creek Side Walls. One can either diagonal up before the swtichbacks or take the first couple and then head over to the crags. Which ever you take - avoid creating a trail and instead walk on the slabs of rock as to minimize your impact. Please do not mark anything with carins - although this area is in the middle of a ski resort it already has alot of impact.
For the upper crags continue up to the lake and traverse around to the northside. The Green Stash Wall sits a couple hundred fee above the lake and is obvious, Stink Stash and Cecret Stash are around the corner to the west. To get there follow the trail up to Cecret Pass. Just before the pass diagonal off to the left. Again avoid creating a trail and instead walk on the slabs of rock as to minimize your impact. Please do not ascend or descend from Green Stash directly down to Cecret Lake there is already a gully forming from run off hiking it will make it worse.
[Hide Photo] John Star on Anti Hero`s Creek Side Wall
[Hide Photo] Early season outing at Cecret Lake: Shaft executing a perfect point after securing himself and the beer (clipped to the 2nb bolt).
[Hide Photo] Approaching the immaculate climbing above Cecret Lake
[Hide Photo] I forget the name of the route but its a good one!
[Hide Photo] A great escape from the heat. Creekside Wall.
Salt Lake City, UT
Leadville, CO
Side note, I believe the chains need to be replaced with a higher grade steel. They are a slim low grade chain. Jul 14, 2009
Salt Lake City, UT
Leadville, CO