Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

South Rock

New Mexico > Taos Area > Tres Piedras
Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Several quality routes of "moderate" difficulty (5.8 to 5.11-) ascend this prominent formation.

Getting There

South Rock is the first rock encountered walking north from the parking area.

Descent

You can rappel down either the north or the south side rappels with a single 60m rope (~28m rappel for either way).
A nasty walkoff/downclimb exists on the east end of the rock (don't do it).

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Routes from Left to Right:
<br>
5.9 Zigzag Man
<br>
5.11- Airy Scary
<br>
5.9+ Agent Orange
<br>
5.10+ Unknown
<br>
5.9 Unknown
<br>
5.9 Unknown
<br>
5.10- Eagle Nest
<br>
5.10- Alias the Martian
<br>
5.11- R Static Cling
[Hide Photo] Routes from Left to Right: 5.9 Zigzag Man 5.11- Airy Scary 5.9+ Agent Orange 5.10+ Unknown 5.9 Unknown 5.9 Unknown 5.10- Eagle Nest 5.10- Alias the Martian 5.11- R Static Cling
Descending on the north side.
[Hide Photo] Descending on the north side.
The south face of South Rock.
[Hide Photo] The south face of South Rock.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bill Lawry
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] Can use the easy-to-find anchors at the top of Surface Tension to rap off the NW end of South Rock into a slot / gully with a HUGE chockstone. A 70 meter rope can get you just downhill of the chockstone. The description of Surface Tension reports that a 60 meter will just make it being careful first to find the center of the rope - watch your ends! - probably lands you uphill of the HUGE chockstone after which it appears you can tunnel around the chockstone if that's the direction you are heading. Aug 15, 2011
[Hide Comment] Active peregrine falcon nest very close to shared anchors for unknown South Face Middle and South Face Right routes. Birds got very agitated today when a climber topped out. Please avoid these routes through the nesting season (into August). May 17, 2014
David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
[Hide Comment] Nest appears to be home now to a large turkey vulture who waddled out on the ledge to check my belay out at the top of the middle unknown route. Appearing bored, he waddled back into his hole. Aug 14, 2017
122Mariya
Arroyo Seco, NM
[Hide Comment] Peregrine falcons are nesting on the big ledge right below the shared anchors of South Face Middle and Right. I came down from lookout shelf towards the parking lot and as soon as I rounded the corner I got screeched and swooped at a few times by the very angry pair. Please don't climb the routes on this wall until after August 31st. In the past the Forest Service has kept this as a voluntary closure of specific walls instead of a hard closure of the entire area so let's keep it that way by not disturbing the falcons. Apr 10, 2019