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Routes in Conundrum Crag

Arrowhead Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crumble My Grundle T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Laugh at Me Dude S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drilling Miss Daisy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dupa humpa S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Family Affair S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Family Circus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Puppy's Assfro S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wayward Son S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 3,908 ft
GPS: 36.163, -115.413 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 11,173 total, 88/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

Description

Four routes from 10a to 12c. Rarely will you see anyone here, but the routes are fun, especially the 11a and 11d. East and south facing.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

From the typical parking at the end of the Calico road, cross the wash and head right towards the Monkey Bar Boulder, passing the Plumber's crack boulder after a couple of minutes' hike. Once at Monkey Bars, several trails allow a choice of wash, near the wash, and higher up. Staying out of the wash but near it seems best-you will be entering Gateway Canyon as the walls close in. Walk about three minutes past where you enter Gateway, past a couple of overhanging bolted routes that seem decidedly non-moderate-this is Conundrum Crag. If the routes you find appear very close together and quite easy, you have most likely found Family Crag and you have gone slightly too far. Backtrack without dropping back into the wash and you're right there.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Conundrum Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

Order of the routes from Left To Right Should be:

First Arete Feature
Dupa humpa S 5.11 [aka Hunting Party, to the left]
Arrowhead Arete S 5.11c [prominent feature]
Don't Laugh at Me Dude S 5.10 [Around the corner from Arrowhead, aka Lost Arrow]

Next Wall Over, about 30'
Satan In A Can 5.12d [3b, unlisted]
Drilling Miss Daisy S 5.11a
Mr. Puppy's Assfro S 5.10d

About 100' to the right is the next wall with three moderate bolted route, and to the left of the bolts are two trad routes.
Crumble My Grundle T 5.7+
Black Sheep T 5.9 [single rack to 5", unlisted]
Wayward Son S 5.9
Family Circus S 5.9
Family Affair S 5.8 Jul 7, 2017
Lost:
I left a goal zero solar charger at the base of the crag on sunday november 17. If you found it, please try to get it back to me! i promise you'll enjoy a low gravity day in the near future.
Cheers,
Peter Nov 22, 2013
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
Thanks Paul. However, his description says four routes, and there are at least 6 (as you said, there are 2 new routes not in the guidebook). I would've loved to have tried the others, but I was visiting and this was my last day and I didn't want to try something I would end up getting stuck on. This is like what I think would be helpful: mountainproject.com/v/10719… Mar 1, 2013
Climbed at this crag for my first time earlier this month with a small group. Several of us did these 2 new routes that are not listed in the guidebook. Excellent routes! Many thanks to the setter! We arrived at the same grade consensus as well ... 5.11a-"ish". Curious to know F.A. info as well (grade, route name).

Shawn, Mike's description is really all you need (assuming you have a guidebook). The guidebook shows Arrowhead Arete and Drilling Miss Daisy. One route is maybe 10 feet left of Arrowhead Arete and the other route is maybe 20 feet right of Drilling Miss Daisy. If you are solid on 5.11 sport, you will love both of these routes Oct 31, 2012
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
I think somebody should post a Beta photo of the whole area so we can see what the routes are and where they are. Oct 2, 2012
What part of conundrum are you facing Ashley. Family Crag Routes? Drilling Miss Daisy? Don't Laugh AMD? or Arrowhead Arete? The only 2 new routes I saw last time was one left of Arrowhead Arete and one right of Drilling Miss Daisy...both are about 11a. May 24, 2012
Ashley allard
Las Vegas, nv
Ashley allard   Las Vegas, nv
What are the new routes just behind you if you are facing conundrum? May 24, 2012
Adam, I climbed there today. I did the two new routes...both have white painted stainless hangers...that were painted at the crag on some rocks at the base :-/ Kinda lame to do that. That said, kudos to the devolopers as they are well/safely bolted with quality gear...stainless hilti bolts and pagan stainless hangers.


One is just left of Arrowhead Arete and the other just right of Drillin' Miss Daisy. As are all new routes at RR, they are still a bit crispy/chossy, but they will clean up, with some traffic, into pretty good routes. They are both about 11A. At least that's what I thought. There is a good sized choss-jug near the last bolt of the left route. It flexes easily, but I could not pull it off. I put a chalk X on it.

I have no clue on the route names or the FA party. Feb 5, 2012
Climbed at Conundrum today and noticed theres a new route on the very right of the wall opposite arrowhead arete. Anybody know what this climb is called or what its rated? Reminded me a lot of those bulgy black corridor climbs. Feb 5, 2012
Christine Gal
henderson, nv
Christine Gal   henderson, nv
FYI -- Handren's Red Rocks guidebook does not have Family Crag separated, it is listed under Conundrum Crag Jan 27, 2009

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