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The Long Wall

W Virginia > New River Gorge… > Summersville (G… > Summersville Lake (main)

Description

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The left side of this wall holds warm-ups in the 5.9-5.10- range of the highest caliber. The right side holds hard 5.11 climbing of a higher caliber still. Many climbers will bypass this cliff in favor of Orange Oswald Wall but I think that not stopping and climbing these warm-ups is blasphemy because they are so good.

Getting There

From the ladders. Follow the water to climbers right past the obvious swimming spot and the first shaded wall you see will be the left side of Long Wall.

Routes from Left to Right

5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 32
● On Top of the Milky Whale
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 2
● Quarryman's Hands
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
● Rocky Top Hilton
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
● Seven Minutes of Heaven
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
● On the Porch
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 57
● Ragged Reaction
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
● Bombardino
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 226
● Chewy
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 280
● Menace Alert
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 146
● Going Ballistic
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 190
● Flight Path
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 50
● Six Dollars a.k.a. Hot and Bothered
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 282
● Under the Milky Way
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
● Articulated
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 58
● Flirting with E
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 126
● Maximum Overdrive
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 26
● Fifty Fifty
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 50
● Minimum Overdrive
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 37
● Spice
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 1
● Gimme Some Tongue
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
● Stone Cold Dixie
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 36
● No Way, Jose'
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● On Top of the Milky Whale
 32
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport
● Quarryman's Hands
 2
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Rocky Top Hilton
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Seven Minutes of Heaven
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● On the Porch
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Ragged Reaction
 57
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Bombardino
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Chewy
 226
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Menace Alert
 280
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Going Ballistic
 146
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Flight Path
 190
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Six Dollars a.k.a. Hot and…
 50
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Under the Milky Way
 282
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Articulated
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Flirting with E
 58
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Maximum Overdrive
 126
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Fifty Fifty
 26
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Minimum Overdrive
 50
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Spice
 37
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Gimme Some Tongue
 1
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Stone Cold Dixie
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● No Way, Jose'
 36
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nuria warming up on another hot summer day.
[Hide Photo] Nuria warming up on another hot summer day.
Under the Milky Way (5.11d) 6/2023
[Hide Photo] Under the Milky Way (5.11d) 6/2023
Chewbacca (5.7), 45 ft. 10/2016. Corner to the left of Chewy (5.10b).
[Hide Photo] Chewbacca (5.7), 45 ft. 10/2016. Corner to the left of Chewy (5.10b).
Under the Milky Way (5.11d) and Articulated (5.12d) 10-2021
[Hide Photo] Under the Milky Way (5.11d) and Articulated (5.12d) 10-2021

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aaron Moskowitz
Philadelphia
[Hide Comment] Why are the names of some of these routes given different names than the ones in the Mike Williams guidebook? Jul 25, 2016
BrianWS
[Hide Comment] The names in the 2007 guidebook were likely not the ones originally given by the first ascentionists. They have since been revised in the updated guides and Rakkup content. Jul 26, 2016
Ben Turcotte
Lynchburg, VA
[Hide Comment] Any info on the line between Ragged Reaction and Chewy? Kitty corner to Chewy and other side of arete from Ragged Reaction. Aug 6, 2018
EFS
[Hide Comment] they are definitely different, in the Cater guidebook from 1995 also. the climb "ragged reaction" shows its name as "ingrate", or a.k.a. "meat wave" there are also completely missing sections such as the perot wall to the right of the coliseum. Jul 7, 2019