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Heaven's Gate Area

Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Approach

Climb any route on the Gate Buttress.

Area Description

This area is essentially made up of routes that are continuations of many of the classic routes on the Gate Buttress.

Descent

Scramble left/west to Sky Surfer & Schoolroom Descent or rappel from stations on the routes.

History

Some of these routes may have seen portions of them climbed many years ago but if so they never cared enough to report them. Nobody knew much about them so most people just ignored them. Some formal routes were eventually established and protected.

Routes from Left to Right

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 2
Teacher's Pet
Sport, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
Unknown
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Teacher's Pet
 2
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, TR
Unknown
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] It seems like there are multiple bolt lines above the last pitch of school room. I climbed what looked to be the longest of the slab lines and could see 3 seperate anchor systems for god knows what from the slab i was on. Non of these climbs seem to be any harder than 5.6 and that would be for one move only.

From what I saw there are:

3 bolt lines all right next to each other and all super easy (why are they even there?)

3 bolted anchors, one at the top of the long slab, one down and to the right, and one to the left halfway up the longer route.

the longest slab is about 35m long as I had about 15-20 feet of rope off the deck when I rapped with my 60m. But I easily stood there pulled the rope and walked down the slab I just climbed!

when you find the rap tree for the school room decent, look up and a little right and you'll see the bolts. Its pretty much at the end of the walk off for tingeys. Oct 7, 2009
STH
[Hide Comment] I happend to think they were GREAT routes. In fact, I think the author of these future classics should get a medal. Oct 8, 2009