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Routes in Lisa Falls West

Creeper, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mad Millennium S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Eye Express S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Superbowl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Top It Off S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

On a hot morning in June, I looked across the canyon from the top of Pentapitch and noticed an orange colored wall just around the corner from Lisa Falls. The sun had just come over the ridge and was starting to bake the slabs on Pentapitch, but the orange-colored wall was still in the shade. In fact, Lisa Falls West is in the shade until noon. It is difficult to lead anything in the noon hour because the sun shines in your face. This would be a good crag for a winter afternoon diversion. The snow would probably make the approach easier. There weren't any indications of regular traffic here, and the trail could use some development. It is nice and peaceful to hear the birds sing and listen to the creek gurgling below. The rock here is an orange colored quartz monzonite that is mostly solid. There are a lot of pockets and broken face holds. There are a few cracks and seams, but most belong to loose looking flakes and pillars that probably won't last very long. Some of the routes here are still cleaning up. There are 6 longer sport routes here ranging from 5.9- to 5.10c. You can spend half a day here and tick them all. It looks like the shorter, steeper right side of the wall may have some route potential.

Routes listed from left to right:

Getting There

Follow the approach to Lisa Falls. Hike through the trees to the west and follow the creek that comes from the north. A faint trail can be found on the west side of the creek (sometimes). It takes about 15 minutes of hiking from Lisa Falls to reach a boulder where you leave the creek and hike to the orange colored wall to the east. Some bushwhacking is required, the rocks in the creek are slick when wet, and there is a lot of loose dirt and rocks. However, it is worth the approach pains.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lisa Falls West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Mad Millennium
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Top It Off
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mad Millennium
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Top It Off
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
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Photos

Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
Buy the topo for this area at IME. The proceeds fund the bolts you clip. Jul 12, 2007
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Checked it out today, and from what I could see it looked like the chossiest wall I've ever laid eyes on. I'll probably be back to climb something though. Feb 10, 2011
zoso  
It climbs less-chossy than most of Helmet Gate. Jun 14, 2013

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