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Routes in 17 - This and That Cliff

Cramming T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Said and Done T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scram S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This and That T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Walk, Don't Run (aka The Bouldering Arch) V0 4
Whim T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

A smaller cliff downstream of New Diversions sporting some good routes including Cramming, Tips, and Stubs.
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Getting There

From Meyers 1986: "The Upper Routes (Weird Scenes...Agent Orange) are approached from above. Park at the Owl Roof turnout on highway 120. Locate the B-1 marker beside the road and hike down to the edge of the cliff. Bring one rope for the rappel approach and one rope with which to climb out.

The other routes are approached from Hwy 140, starting from a gravel parking area... 1.5 miles down west of the Hwy 120/140 junction... One [main climber's trail] goes straight up to Tips."

Look for a grassy area next to a house sized boulder. Park at the pullout for Cascade falls and walk up the highway past a couple of curves to find the large boulder. Walk past the boulder and look for an small rock retaining wall with a couple of steps. Hike uphill from there. This is how you access the Tips side of the cliff. Look out for poison oak!

You can also park across the highway from the boulder, but this parking option is small.

The best way to get to Cramming is to take the trail to Tips and walk the base from there.

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Classic Climbing Routes at 17 - This and That Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whim
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This and That
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cramming
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Tips
Trad, Aid
Whim 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
This and That 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Cramming 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Tips 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0 Trad, Aid
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Photos

The best way to get to Cramming is to take the trail to Tips and walk the base from there- the alleged eastern trail is more of a shoe-filling dirt escalator through poison oak on a steep, eroding hillside. Other than that, it's great! Jan 26, 2010
The houses mentioned above were abandoned by the Park Service after the flood and have been demolished and are now removed. Look for a grassy area next to a house sized boulder. Park at the pullout for Cascade falls and walk up the highway past a couple of curves to find the large boulder. Walk past the boulder and look for an small rock retaining wall with a couple of steps. Hike uphill from there. This is how you access the Tips side of the cliff. Lookout for poison oak!
You can also park across the highway from the boulder, but this parking option is small. Jan 26, 2010

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