Elevation: 455 ft
GPS: 42.596, -72.442 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 72,670 total · 489/month
Shared By: Robbovius on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
Access Issue: Private Property with limited allowed access. Do NOT add routes here. Details

Description

This is a large, multiple-outcrop, gneiss crag in Erving, MA (nearly to the NH border north of Springfield), close to Route 2 in western Massachusetts. It is somewhat secluded, not especially popular, though the rock and climbing are quality and enjoyable. Routes are trad, bolted, mixed, and top-rope-able. Grades range from 5.4 to 5.14b. Below and all along the crag, there is an extensive boulder field below with many enjoyable and challenging problems, from V0- to V12/V13.

Getting There

The crag is right off Route 2 in Erving. From Route 2, either East or West, look for Holmes Street (heading west, it's on the right, heading east, on the left). Drive up Holmes street to Wells Street, take Wells to the end of the pavement, and turn right onto Cross St. The current Farley parking area is right there, literally in someone's front yard, identified by a large sign (with "Farley Ledge Parking" and various notices attached) and a series of posts stuck into the ground defining the parking area, and with a smaller sign attached to one post reading "8 Car Limit". As the sign reads, there is only room for 8 cars. A log-construction house abutts to the right of the parking area.

Expect a 20+ minute hike from the parking lot. The Farley trailhead is on the other side of the Log house from the parking lot, near a waist-high boulder, and with a square post at the trail head with the letters "M-M" painted on it in white. Follow this trail thru the woods (about 1/5th-1/4 mile) until you come to an obvious intersection at the cascades to the nearby stream, surrounding a large, angular boulder. The M-M trail continues off to the right over a wooden bridge, and the Farley trail continues into the woods ahead, across the dirt road heading left, and identified by a metal sign with the words "Farley Ledge" and a left-pointing arrow cut right into the metal.

Continue to follow this trail into the boulder field, and eventually you will see the crag appearing thru the trees on your right. Various small rockpiles/cairns identify trails heading up to the crag face.

To ensure continued access to Farley, respect for the landowners who have allowed access through their properties is paramount. Please be respectful of their yards and homes when visiting Farley. LNT.

Parking

Per Jack Dunphy: I own property at 10 Maple Ave which is roughly 100 yards +/- from the parking area for Farley Ledge. I have been allowing people to park at my property for quite some time now and wanted to reach out and let others know of this availability. I do have a lock box with a $5 donation which is on the honor system.

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