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Areas in Farley Ledge

Amphitheatre 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Bat Cave 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Speed of Life Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Warmup area 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Zen Garden 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 455 ft
GPS: 42.596, -72.442 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 57,208 total, 451/month
Shared By: Robbovius on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer
Getting weather forecast...

Description

This is a large, multiple-outcrop, gneiss crag in Erving, MA (nearly to the NH border north of Springfield), close to Route 2 in western Massachusetts. It is somewhat secluded, not especially popular, though the rock and climbing are quality and enjoyable. Routes are trad, bolted, mixed, and top-rope-able. Grades range from 5.4 to 5.14b. Below and all along the crag, there is an extensive boulder field below with many enjoyable and challenging problems, from V0- to V12/V13.
Private Property with limited allowed access. Do NOT add routes here. Details

Getting There

The crag is right off Route 2 in Erving. From Route 2, either East or West, look for Holmes Street (heading west, it's on the right, heading east, on the left). Drive up Holmes street to Wells Street, take Wells to the end of the pavement, and turn right onto Cross St. The current Farley parking area is right there, literally in someone's front yard, identified by a large sign (with "Farley Ledge Parking" and various notices attached) and a series of posts stuck into the ground defining the parking area, and with a smaller sign attached to one post reading "8 Car Limit". As the sign reads, there is only room for 8 cars. A log-construction house abutts to the right of the parking area.

Expect a 20+ minute hike from the parking lot. The Farley trailhead is on the other side of the Log house from the parking lot, near a waist-high boulder, and with a square post at the trail head with the letters "M-M" painted on it in white. Follow this trail thru the woods (about 1/5th-1/4 mile) until you come to an obvious intersection at the cascades to the nearby stream, surrounding a large, angular boulder. The M-M trail continues off to the right over a wooden bridge, and the Farley trail continues into the woods ahead, across the dirt road heading left, and identified by a metal sign with the words "Farley Ledge" and a left-pointing arrow cut right into the metal.

Continue to follow this trail into the boulder field, and eventually you will see the crag appearing thru the trees on your right. Various small rockpiles/cairns identify trails heading up to the crag face.

To ensure continued access to Farley, respect for the landowners who have allowed access through their properties is paramount. Please be respectful of their yards and homes when visiting Farley. LNT.

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Tyler Shaneaman
Northampton
Tyler Shaneaman   Northampton
Hi folks, I'm looking for a lead climbing partner to enjoy Farley and some of the surrounding areas with. Any advise for how to meet others in a similar boat?

email is best: schu123tyler@gmail.com. Jul 4, 2017
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Hi Austin,

Welcome to Mountain Project!

At the top of areas (like Farley Ledge) you'll find a red outlined section in the description that contain access information. The WMCC and local climbing community have been working really hard to keep our access to this area and one of the restrictions is that there be no published guidebooks. Check out the MORE INFO >>> link at the top of the page to read more.



With that said, the local climbers are typically very friendly and can usually help get you to the right area. There is a kiosk at the parking lot which shows the trails. On a nice day, there will surely be folks on some of the classics who will probably be happy to share what they know. It's part of the experience. Apr 13, 2017
Does anyone know where I could find a good guidebook for bouldering here? Apr 12, 2017
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Tyler,
The standard operating procedure at Farley is to ask someone what the climb and grade is. Unfortunately, there has to be someone around, and they have to know what they are talking about. I had one climber tell me a climb was 10a and another climber tell me the same climb was 11b. So, bring a leave-it biner, and do some adventure climbing. Jan 27, 2017
Tyler Shaneaman
Northampton
Tyler Shaneaman   Northampton
I'm interested in heading here to do some climbing as soon as the weather allows. What does one do in lieu of a topo? Jan 27, 2017
Great, thank you! Jan 20, 2017
Joe M.    
There is a "guide" on the kiosk in the parking lot which I think shows where Chronic is. If not, it is down the main trail heading east (I think), past almost everything, on the left. Very easy to find. Jan 19, 2017
Can anyone tell me where "Chronic" (V5) is located and how to get to it from the new parking lot? I am excited to get on it, but it isn't mentioned in the guidebook and obviously isn't on here, so I don't know how to get to it.

Thanks much!
Graham Jan 18, 2017
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
The description is really old and should be updated. Specifically, "It is somewhat secluded, not especially popular, though the rock and climbing are quality and enjoyable."

"Not especially popular"? If you don't get here really early the parking lots are full. Very popular is a better description. Dec 5, 2016
ckersch  
Someone left a Mad Rock draw up at the crag yesterday. It's clipped to the sign at the overflow parking lot. Nov 7, 2016
WARNING: I got part way up 6-Foot Man today before noticing a decent-sized hornet nest right below the fourth bolt. If someone has means and inclination to remove it, that would be great; otherwise, I'd stay clear. Jun 19, 2016
SpencerB BB
Pasadena, CA
SpencerB BB   Pasadena, CA
Hi,
I was climbing the easy trad line just to the left of where the approach trail hits the main cliff on Sunday (6/1/2014) and found a cam and two quick draws on the route and anchor. Let me know if you forgot your gear and we can figure out a way to get it back to you. Jun 2, 2014
Margie  
Hi Farley climbers,
I went climbing at Farley on Sunday with a group of friends and managed to leave just one shoe (Nago, size 5.5, greenish-blue). If anyone finds (or already found) it please let me know! (power2runners at yahoo)
Thanks! Apr 22, 2014
JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
Extra thanks to the WMCC and the Access Fund who recently did a lot of trail work at Farley! Excellent work! Finally made it back out here the other day for a very enjoyable day of climbing. Jul 16, 2013
Kaylee Catmull
Riverside, CA
Kaylee Catmull   Riverside, CA
Can't wait until the WMCC can move on the purchase of the land where the cliffs reside.
Awesome work with the Farley preservation project. Jun 2, 2013
Climbers have had access to Farley for the past 12 (?) years since the Western Mass. Climber's Coalition was created and got involved. The WMCC went so far as to purchase land to construct a public parking area in 2007/2008. While access has been GREATLY improved, we still don't own any of the land where the cliffs are located. The WMCC has a great relationship wth current landowners, but anything can happen. Additional land, including the cliffs, are being pursued but until it's sold, not much will change. Jul 22, 2011
RockinOut
NY, NY
RockinOut   NY, NY
Hasn't access been restored to Farley Ledge? I heard rumors that the Climbers Coalition came to an agreement with the landowners....any updates? Jun 29, 2011
tcamillieri
Denver
tcamillieri   Denver
Speed of Life Video

Speed of Life (V10) from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo. May 24, 2010
2 posts needed on RC.knob and one at MP?

Did you check the areas forum?

mountainproject.com/v/easte…

The land owner's have specifically asked that guides not be published for the area (this includes online). That said if you show up, a local will show you around, me included. Chances are you weren't sand-bagged as what got an online "consensus" grade of 10b is (and has been for 3 decades) a consensus 8, and what got an online grade of 10c/d is a consensus 9. The routes are graded like New England climbs, not Rumney climbs (I know Rumney is in New England, paradox, eh?), i.e. know how to hand jam. Jun 3, 2009
There is a new parking area for Farley. It lies about 0.5 miles west on Highway 2 of the old Wells Street parking lot described above. It's located on the old Lehman property. Turn left (towards the cliff) and drive up into a small gravel parking lot. Park closely to allow room for as many cars as possible.

Walk 5 minutes to the base of the Amphitheater area. Apr 20, 2009

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