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Routes in George's Point

Astro boy TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Double Overhang TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flake Route TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Particle Man TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S--- Stain, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Vine Street TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
ugly overhang TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
unknown TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

Routes here are primarily beginner level, and are best done as TR problems. This crag unfortunately is another popular place to go "office space" on printer, computers etc. So watch out for lots of broken glass, and busted appliances. Come here only if you are desperate for something new.

Climbing is not illegal at George's Point Park, but is prohibited on the big and obvious faces of Grandad's Bluff, closest to the overlook which is a City Park. There is not any City policy or ordinance about climbing, in order to further reduce any liability for the City, but climbing is allowed in the bluffs.

Getting There

To access Georges Point Park at the pullout before the overlook point. Head down the Huge trail that starts just past the bathroom, about 50yards down this trail turn to the right. All the TR set ups are right in front of you. Do not use the large oak trees as anchors, as the webbing will then be visible from the road (climbing is ILLEGAL here). Instead use the large boulders right on top of the cliff.

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Classic Climbing Routes at George's Point

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
A user has updated the description of this area, please see the second paragraph under "description" above. Anyone care to comment on the accuracy of that statement? Jacob? I heard Freddy got a ticket within the past couple years for climbing at Granddad's -- but have not spoken with him personally. Comments? New info? Jun 6, 2014
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
I have not personally climbed at Grandad's but from looking at Google Maps (which is usually dead on) the cliff and parking area are part of "Grandad Bluff Park" and should be fine for climbing, it is not a state natural area so unless there are specific posted rules against climbing it shouldn't be a worry.

However, private land starts immediately after the cliff line and park land may not extend more then a few yards past the cliff. I would say access to the bottom crosses private land, but when you are belaying you are probably in the park.

Sketchy in general, I'm sure that's why people want visitors to be careful. Jun 24, 2011
Juggler  
If climbing is illegal why is this posted- has access been changed to allow, or do you just take your chances? Any new info- anyone? Who has said it is not allowed and is it posted? Jun 24, 2011
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Two sets of anchor bolts are now in place on top of the point. One directly above particle man, the other set is 5 feet south just below the cliff side of the large boulder used for setting topropes. It is a little precarious getting to these anchor bolts, but is a much better option than using the highly visible (and tattered) ROTC wire cable. Apr 10, 2008
foundation and yeast of burden should be moved to witches area Jun 30, 2007

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